And I have a fmf fatty exhaust.
Duz anyone make a O ring where the end of head pipe connects to where the starts getting bigger at the 2nd set of springs ?

 

Seal the flange and pipe joint with High temp copper RTV. Let it cure for 24-48 hrs and it won't leak anymore.

 

Ok.
Could I get High temp copper RTV at Menards ?
Thank you for the quick response dude.

 

Answer to your question, yes.
Think about this, when the piston comes down & opens up the exhaust port, theres a wave sent out that in some cases when porting & pipe match up has a suction effect to it & that wave is pulling what ever it can out into the pipe. Well when that wave gets out to where the stinger welds on, it turns around coming back to the cylinder & has a pushing type of effect to it & will push the fresh fuel mix that was pulled out of the cylinder into the pipe, back into the cylinder.
Now, guess what that suction wave pulled in as it went past that part of the pipe that was not sealed. You guessed it, raw air, no gas/oil mix so it has leaned down that mix of fuel/exhaust from the pipe, pushed back into the cylinder.
If you really want to find out how quick you can seize a piston from a unsealed pipe, get a Yamaha 200 blaster & dont seal that pipe connection & see how quick it will lock up. Those little air cooled engines will seize up from an unsealed pipe quicker than a cat can lick its tail.
Neil

 

Thank you Neil.
For giving me a better understanding of this .

 

I use hondabond on every joint.it works great and can be put on and used in an hour or less unlike the cheep high temp permatex.