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phillipburke

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I just got a new hot rods crank and oem bearings and seals put in my bottom end. The problem is when I picked up the motor from the shop the mechanic put the case halves back together. But one hole was striped on the case it's the lower one right above the engine mount. Is it possible to run this without this bolt because they want me to pay again to split the cases and I will have to get new bearings. I just would like to hear some opions on this if it will be ok. Also they didn't use a gasket they uses Yama bond I think it's called they told me it was better than a gasket.
 
I believe the thickness of the gasket is important in how everything lines up. I wouldnt be too happy about that personally. If they wanna yamabond it then they could put it on both sides of the gasket. I have had great success with 6mm helicoils but the cases will have to be split to do it.
 
I stripped out one on my cases.Mainly because the aftermarket bolt kit had shorter bolts than the originals.Don't know if will work for you but I found a bolt about a quarter in longer that bit into the remaining threads and tightened up.If there the stainless type bolts don't torque past 5 lbs
 
X2 could try a longer bolt or retap it. I would run a 6mm tap same thread pitch then try a longer bolt. I'm not sure of the torque spec but it's not a lot so I think that would work. I have a motor that I bought with that stainless kit I'm not a fan of them they aren't the right lengths.
 
Need to run the bolt IMO.

As stated; try running a tap, use 6 MM x 1, use a bottom tap to get the most depth of new threads. The bottom tap should do it for you, use a TrQ wrench to 5/6 lbs. Use anti-seize compound.....

Carlos
 
i would take the cases back and make them split them and put the center gasket in at their cost, the right way. some motors require a gasket, and several different 4 stroke motors i have built do actually require no gasket and to just use yamabond between center cases.
if it requires one like the 250r cases do, i can only assume clearances will be affected.
 
Would it be ok to drill it out and tap it 1 size bigger
IMO, and in order of preference:

Try tapping with 6MM x 1 Bottom tap first, if no success then:
Split cases, re-tap correctly with 6MM x 1 bottom tap
Split cases, and Helicoil for 6MM x 1
Split cases, drill hole 3 MM deeper, tap with bottom tap 6 MM x 1
Split cases and tap for 1/4" x 28
Leave bolt out...

Always us an OEM Center Case gasket on all TRX/ATC250R engines.

Carlos
 
now how big of a problem do I have since they didn't use a center gasket and used Yama bond should it be ok
I personally would be concerned about the proper clearances, as already stated, how the transmission will or will not be affected as well as the crank and mains. The next thing i would do would be to perform a leak down test, even if a gasket was used. I wouldn't be surprised if it has been done before without any problems

Use anti-seize compound.....
ace, is this recomended on the case bolts in general (steel bolt in aluminum case)or to get the stripped bolt some traction?
 
X2 leak down test would be a good idea then if it leaked I would make them redo it. They probably are going to stick to the way they done it unless you have a better reason then you don't like it. Unless you are friends with the builder or something.
 
I personally would be concerned about the proper clearances, as already stated, how the transmission will or will not be affected as well as the crank and mains. The next thing i would do would be to perform a leak down test, even if a gasket was used. I wouldn't be surprised if it has been done before without any problems

ace, is this recomended on the case bolts in general (steel bolt in aluminum case)or to get the stripped bolt some traction?
Anti seize compound is good practice on case bolts, helps save the threads and limits frozen bolts due to corrosion. Not a substitute for Loctite; use Loctite as needed on all internal bolts...external bolts use Anti seize compound.

Carlos
 
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