I do care about noise levels, but my overall concern is for the spark arrestor which is necessary for state/federal riding areas. Thanks duner929 for your input. All info is appreciated! BRAAAPP!!!

the fly weight might be what you like.I run 1 on my yz and its great.my kx was a grunt monster so i didn't put 1 on that.they will help a ton on the stalling for sure.has your r got the cr head gasket?that gives you more compression and helps a bunch in the low end.

 

yea dude, thought i was the only one who cared about noise levels.keep the boyesen reeds for your riding style.

I do care about noise levels, but my overall concern is for the spark arrestor which is necessary for state/federal riding areas. Thanks duner929 for your input. All info is appreciated! BRAAAPP!!!

 

Will these pipes work well with an FMF Turbine Core silencer? I want to keep the spark arrestor as I ride in both State and National Forest areas.

yea dude, thought i was the only one who cared about noise levels.keep the boyesen reeds for your riding style.

 

Will these pipes work well with an FMF Turbine Core silencer? I want to keep the spark arrestor as I ride in both State and National Forest areas.

Yes sir B)

 

A woods/mx pipe would be better than that fatty too. An esr 6, 7, PT race, PT 6, or CT mx would all be good choices.

Will these pipes work well with an FMF Turbine Core silencer? I want to keep the spark arrestor as I ride in both State and National Forest areas.

 

A woods/mx pipe would be better than that fatty too. An esr 6, 7, PT race, PT 6, or CT mx would all be good choices.

 

Well thats my experiences on bikes swaping from one to the other. V-force's do good on Pv engines they really bring out that low end. But really arnt good on a non pv engine. A rad valve lets its rev out really good. But IMO all around the Pyramid is the best.

 

Yeah, I was always told the Rad Valve is more bottom to mid-range.

 

I've always heard opposite...

The VF2/3s are more for top end, whereas the RAD valve is better suited for overall power gains and throttle response.

 

a V-force or Pyramid reed valve will help you on bottom to mid. Maby try and trade that Rad valve for one (i got a VF2 i might trade) The Rad valves pull good on top. The 36 Is good for the lowend power. Maby also look into shaving your head. That would help in the low RPM's too.

 

I'm using a Keihin PJ36 with a Boyesen Rad Valve. FMF Fatty pipe and silencer, stock bore and I assume stock porting. (the top end was freshly done when I purchased the quad last spring.)

 

What reeds and size of carb are you using??

 

Yeah I figured Honda put a heavier flywheel on the ATC/TRX compared to the CR's. I'm looking to try and get a little more torque out of the engine and reduce stalling the motor at low rpm. Dont get me wrong.....my TRX runs excellent, I was just kicking around the thought of adding a weight if available.

 

Here is a pic of the Sparks Racing setup I got from pro rider Zac Willet. He used this setup for TT and MX. I don't know how much weight is added but it feels like a good amount compared to a stock 89 flywheel.

 

I know a lot of people that run the CR ignition add a Steahly (i don't know exactly how it's spelled, but it's something like that) flywheel weight. I've never heard of anyone wanting to add weight to the stock flywheel.

 

I dont see a point, On the mx dirbikes its needed because the flywheels are so light, because they try and squeze as much power of them as they can. For the quads this is one of many ways they detuned them. They have a heavy boat anchor flywheel. Even for woods riding i woudnt add weight. get a diffrent pipe or porting.