[jadleybray]

hope it gold plated !!!
most getto( ghetto )shit dude would smoke you bling guys.
just to disrespectful , to someone who helps you out ?

It is really hard to tell who you are replying too let alone what you're trying to say

 

[Craig B.]

hope it gold plated !!!
most getto( ghetto )shit dude would smoke you bling guys.
just to disrespectful , to someone who helps you out ?

You better put down that pipe before you get burnt!!!

 

[motofool250r]

It is really hard to tell who you are replying too let alone what you're trying to say

unfortunately working abroad i actually understood this hes trying to say:

that why show disrespect to the guys who advised to use duct tape loctitie and BFW(big fuckin wrench) to keep it tight.

the guys who make things work in macguyver type ways will probably be faster or out-ride the guys who have the bling-bling bikes that never get used or ridden like a race bike should.

 

[deadly]

LSR nut doesn't need tape Craig. Just an FYI for future readers the locking nuts should NEVER be more than extreme hand tight. Torquing them on too tight adds unneeded/unecessary stress to the bearings in the carrier causing premature wear and eventually failure. That's why when utilizing a stock one you hand tighten it and then tape it because it will without a doubt work itself loose if you don't. As Carlos mentioned just use loctite on a stock nut and be done with it or pony up for an aftermarket one. I always loved when people turned their heads sideways looking at the ghetto electrical taped lock nut on my bike. Shoulder down flippin the sideways peace sign yo!

 

[etccb]

Back in the day everyone including the factory taped it up. Racers Tape was the cool duct tape that you could get in nearly any color you wanted. I have went through rolls of blue and black in my day. The duct tape method has won multiple national championships.

 

[atvmxr]

you knuckleheads are missing the point of the tape!! the tape is to protect the threads and keep crud from getting in there and binding up the threads when you go to remove it.... not duct tape, but electrical tape wrapped tight in a few layers. pretty much just a MX racer prep thing though

also, the stock ones at least, will just flat wear out and not stay tight after alot of years. Mine gave out after about ten years, I could tighten the @!#$@ out of it and 2 laps later the thing would get loose. I bought a durablue OEM type replacement nut, not the antifade, for around $60.

Back in the day, the antifades were a real bitch to keep tight. Aluminum has a high rate of thermal expansion/contaction and so after a couple heat cycles they would ALWAYS come loose. I never thought much of them, more a blingy part than funtional. Today maybe they have figured that out

 

[etccb]

Nope. Back in the day the racers tape was also there to help keep the nut tight. I am old and grey and I was there. It would not let it back off. Maybe I will do an old school tape up and take a pic for a sample of the old school lock nut setup.

 

[motofool250r]

Nope. Back in the day the racers tape was also there to help keep the nut tight. I am old and grey and I was there. It would not let it back off. Maybe I will do an old school tape up and take a pic for a sample of the old school lock nut setup.

the person who got me started on trx250r's mr jaybo from the atvconnection chat room, came back from a ride with a brand new complete durablue setup that loosened up twice in the first 20mins of riding and ruined the carrier, scarred up both hubs so bad in a few mins of riding that we had to swap back to the stock rear when he had an extended front end.

he swore to never use durablue stuff again, im not sure antifades were available back then, but either way i remember distinctively wrapping the threads and the nut first with electrical tape then with some duct tape after wards.

and then we went over and did mine right after and noticed it was loose also.

 

[RANSOM]

I have some info to add to this... With a single row or double row bearing carrier the axle nut should NOT be over tightened but the LOCKnut SHOULD BE along with CLEAN THREADS AND WITH RED loctite. It should not come loose unless the bearings are over tightened.. AND THE REASON FOR THIS is simple.. When over tighening a single or double row bearing set-up you are putting excessive preload on the thrust tube between the bearings. As this tube is under pressure ANY shock lock to the bearing/axle will cause this tube to MUSHROOM OVER at each end. (e.g. when you are doing any type of press work for bearings ect. And you have a siezed bearing the the press will not move the trick is to put the bearing under pressure and give the press tool a little shot with a mallot. This caues a pressure spike and gets the siezed bearing moving.) NOW BACK TO THE STORY.. The pressure spike exceeds what the thrust tube material is capable of handling... This is what causes the mushrooming effect.

Now once the tube mushrooms it is actually being shortened and the axle loosens up. Then you go and tighten the locknut assembly and put PRELOAD on a bearing (single/double row) that CANNOT have preload on it. THIS causes the bearing to wear very rapidly causing the bearing balls to wear down and the races to open up.. And the axles loosens up.. And then you repeat the process and destroy the bearings.. and many times the whole assembly.


Now as for anti-fades.. About 12 yrs ago I bought a durablue and it failed within a few rides.. The reason was that the part of the nut that slips over the c-clip was aluminum. And as the nut was tightened the aluminum would compress and mushroom causing the axle assembly to loosen up.. Not to mention the seal suface was aluminum too and allowed the seal to cut grooves into it within a few rides. I don't know if Durablue has changed the design. BUT I know for a fact that RPM uses a hard steel insert for where the axle c-clip lands AND the bearing surface. IDK about lonestar. After all those issues with dpouble row carriers and a shotty anti-fade, I switched to a RPM tapered carrier which NEEDS PRELOAD and an RPM antifade. After that I never had another issue. And no I didn't need to tape it.

Just a note.. when dealing with aluminum parts that see lots of load.. You will almost always need to go back a re-torque from the aluminum compressing.. It only takes a couple thousandths of compression to loosen things up. Thats why they tell you to re-torque custom cars wheels are a couple hundred miles..

 

[efi2stroke]

It is really hard to tell who you are replying too let alone what you're trying to say

reply was to craig b. taping is beneath him ,so I was saying hope it gold plated
he spelled getto which I took meaning ghetto ,which is demeaning to the person offering help.
I am an old desert guy ,seen lots of so called getto bikes with extremely fast riders and win races with them.And championships
not everybody has cash or credit to burn on a hobby or sport active , I work 12-14 hrs + drive time a day ,and most on probably EARN 2 to 3 + over MY INCOME .
I do have a few wins and my bike I guess would be considered ghetto.
function over show
r stands for race not rhinestones .
AS FOR PUTTING THE PIPE DOWN AGAIN NO EXTRA CASH FOR THAT ,I'LL LEAVE THOSE ACTIVES TO YOU! craig b

 

[Craig B.]

reply was to craig b. taping is beneath him ,so I was saying hope it gold plated
he spelled getto which I took meaning ghetto ,which is demeaning to the person offering help.
I am an old desert guy ,seen lots of so called getto bikes with extremely fast riders and win races with them.And championships
not everybody has cash or credit to burn on a hobby or sport active , I work 12-14 hrs + drive time a day ,and most on probably EARN 2 to 3 + over MY INCOME .
I do have a few wins and my bike I guess would be considered ghetto.
function over show
r stands for race not rhinestones .
AS FOR PUTTING THE PIPE DOWN AGAIN NO EXTRA CASH FOR THAT ,I'LL LEAVE THOSE ACTIVES TO YOU! craig b

So because I want something nice without tape all over it you are putting me down? Maybe I don't want to ride a POS like you do. Did you think of that? People buy what they can afford. I work as hard as the next guy and like to have nice stuff. Maybe it's bud your smoking??

 

[mennis1971]

I've never had any problems with my LSR antifade on my quad. On my trike(85 250r) the stock axle nut holds just fine without taping or loctite. If you're not having a problem, then why fix it is my opinion. Why get such an attitude Craig? If you already know what you want to do, then just go buy one. Btw I've never been a durablue fan and LSR axles aren't the strongest either. I have one of each for the quad. Go with RPM if you want the best imo.

 

[Craig B.]

I've never had any problems with my LSR antifade on my quad. On my trike(85 250r) the stock axle nut holds just fine without taping or loctite. If you're not having a problem, then why fix it is my opinion. Why get such an attitude Craig? If you already know what you want to do, then just go buy one. Btw I've never been a durablue fan and LSR axles aren't the strongest either. I have one of each for the quad. Go with RPM if you want the best imo.

My comment was not directed towards you, so not sure what your talking about [attitude]?? Is Efi2stroke your buddy?

 

[89longrod]

Lets not turn this into one of those threads....If you can afford to buy a nice new anti fade thats cool and if you cant afford to thats cool also...Whatever lets you ride your 250r at the end of the work week is just fine for me...Craig B I think you let his last post get to you cause for you to call his ride a piece of shit is pretty childish but maybe thats what you are who knows?...Anyway if you wanna use tape then use tape cause you know it works...If you wanna spend a few hundred on a anti fade nut then go for it...But lets not bad mouth each other in the process! This isnt the Yamaha forums...

 

[efi2stroke]

I want to apologize to the members on this forum for my comments!
There is so much good info shared on this site.
Because it can be very intimidating to some that have good sound, working info to share with us.
Again I apologize.

 

[mennis1971]

I've never met him craig. The attitude I was referring to was the crack pipe stuff and the acting like duct tape was ghetto. Well it kind of is now, but if it works then don't knock it to much. Not everyone can afford a new antifade and honestly an antifade isn't that much of a necessity, but keeping your axle tight is. I'm in no way saying whoever started with the attitude(it doesn't matter and I personally think that it could be argued either way), but there is no need for it here on the site. If you have something rude to say then please do so thru a PM so we can keep the site drama free. Personally I'd like to think that we all have something in common in that we all love 250r's which would make us all "buddies".

 

[hayestrx250r]

Can we settle on some clear tape? The newer LSR Anti fades do have steel on both ends FYI.

 

[wolvman99]

for the new guys that dont know what were taking about bfw {big f--- wrench } stock axle nut has two nuts tighten adjustment nut too desired preload put some lock tight on threads run up lock nut get two big wrenchs hold the preload on adjustment nut tighten lock nut tight then wrap tape on to keep dirt out of threads and too keep lock nut from backing off away from adjustment nut .

 

[Craig B.]

No need for any drama. I did take mennis1971 advice and bought a RPM anti-fade hub. Nice looking piece and I don't think I will have any problems with this getting loose. Next mod CR250 ignition.

 

[wolvman99]

looks nice