Spacer plate engines are supposed to have more low end "grunt",you will get mixed reviews on this.
250R brakes will not work on the EX spindles without some high priced adapters,the EX spindles will work on the R otherwise.
Barnett,EBC,etc all offer heavier springs,and CR500 springs will do the trick also.

 

Just my advice:

The main advantage is the 86 piston is that it's available in more bore sizes. You won't notice a big power difference between the two different pistons.

For clutch springs, I recommend new OEM springs. Can't beat an oem clutch setup.

If you already have good R spindles just stick with those. You will need adapters to use the R calipers with the EX spindles or you'd have to use EX calipers.

If your front end measures 49 inches wide at ride height with 3+2 wheels you're good to go.

Proper setup of your front end (and the rest of your quad) is the most important thing, no matter which parts you use.

 

Just my advice:

The main advantage is the 86 piston is that it's available in more bore sizes. You won't notice a big power difference between the two different pistons.

For clutch springs, I recommend new OEM springs. Can't beat an oem clutch setup.

If you already have good R spindles just stick with those. You will need adapters to use the R calipers with the EX spindles or you'd have to use EX calipers.

If your front end measures 49 inches wide at ride height with 3+2 wheels you're good to go.

Proper setup of your front end (and the rest of your quad) is the most important thing, no matter which parts you use.

Well im confused on why my front end is 49 inches with the 3+2 off set rims ( which are my crappy ones) and my (expensive douglas shamrock beadlock )4+1 that i was instructed that i would have to have is only at 46 inches.

Im not blaming anyone, but im curious how wide other peoples front ends are with what arms, wheels, and ect. Im trying to figure out what went wrong. If my +3 a arms arent really +3 or what ever.

 

I'm thinking you might have +2 a-arms. Can you post some pics?

 

I'm thinking you might have +2 a-arms. Can you post some pics?

What Im thinking too

 

I was told they are +3 for a 400ex

 

You need to have the quad on the ground with the suspension at ride height to properly measure your width.

 

Those a-arms look pretty darn wide to me. Once you measure with the quad on the ground, also take note of the width at the top of the tires versus on the ground. The measurement will vary depending on how much camber you have. If you have a lot of camber (tires pointing inward), it will measure more narrow across the top of the tires.

 

Those a-arms look pretty darn wide to me. Once you measure with the quad on the ground, also take note of the width at the top of the tires versus on the ground. The measurement will vary depending on how much camber you have. If you have a lot of camber (tires pointing inward), it will measure more narrow across the top of the tires.

I will measure again, but it was 46-47 on the ground and rubing. the last pic is with my 3+2 setup, due to the tires being radials, the Holeshot mx shots are the 4+1 rims, and they grind the tops of my ball joints something fierce. When the quad is on the ground, You cant get much travel out of em since the upper balljoint bottoms out on the top of the rim from the rotating action.

 

It may be because the +1 aspect is +1 to the outside of the hub, whereas the +2 (mentioned in the +3+2 wheels) has +2 inches to the outside of the hub, making them wider.

You can reverse the +4+1 wheels making the +4 portion to the outside of the hub....

Measuring is key, measure twice before ordering. Sorry you had to find out the hard way.

Make sure you tweak your camber and toe.

By the way, there have been tons of great discussions comparing the short rod to the long rod using complex math. There should be no difference....

 

It may be because the +1 aspect is +1 to the outside of the hub, whereas the +2 (mentioned in the +3+2 wheels) has +2 inches to the outside of the hub, making them wider.

You can reverse the +4+1 wheels making the +4 portion to the outside of the hub....

Measuring is key, measure twice before ordering. Sorry you had to find out the hard way.

Make sure you tweak your camber and toe.

By the way, there have been tons of great discussions comparing the short rod to the long rod using complex math. There should be no difference....

Either way my engine is a short rod 87, but theres talk about the timing of the piston and windows, on the 86 pistons. I can get a kit that is an 86 piston with a spacer plate and a electric coating or some sort for better wear. Or get one more bore on my jug with a 87 piston.


My question is there any truth to useing the 86 piston on the 87 crank for more bottem end power due to timings.

Also how do you guys change the exhaust timing and the transfer timing? I dont fully understand all that.

 

Either way my engine is a short rod 87, but theres talk about the timing of the piston and windows, on the 86 pistons. I can get a kit that is an 86 piston with a spacer plate and a electric coating or some sort for better wear. Or get one more bore on my jug with a 87 piston.


My question is there any truth to useing the 86 piston on the 87 crank for more bottem end power due to timings.

Also how do you guys change the exhaust timing and the transfer timing? I dont fully understand all that.

Anyone know anything about it? Or point me in a direction where i could find it?

 

I would talk to C-Leigh Racing about it, on this forum. There are also books you can download on this site, but it takes years of reading....

 

The 86 piston on a long rod crank doesent really do anything to the port timing,everything is moved 5mm so in theory it is still in the same spot as far as piston to port opening.It allows for more crankcase volume and as mentioned before,a wider range of bore sizes were available in the 86 style.

 

Where can i find some heavier clutch springs? I need to buy some asap, because my stockers, measure under the oem specs.

I use cr 500 springs. Also Im removed one of the stock metal clutch plates from the middle of the pack and replaced it with a 400ex plate. Def the best setup to go with using oem parts.

 

Either way my engine is a short rod 87, but theres talk about the timing of the piston and windows, on the 86 pistons. I can get a kit that is an 86 piston with a spacer plate and a electric coating or some sort for better wear. Or get one more bore on my jug with a 87 piston.


My question is there any truth to useing the 86 piston on the 87 crank for more bottem end power due to timings.

Also how do you guys change the exhaust timing and the transfer timing? I dont fully understand all that.

The 87 is a long rod crank. The 85-86 are short rod and the 87-89 are long rod.