Well I was hearing a grind/ moan when I would let my clutch out slowly when starting from a stand still and could feel it in the clutch lever. Tore my clutch cover off to check it out and found the steel ball fused its self to the push rod, and who ever tore into it last justturned it around so that the ball was towards the shifter side of the engine and the end cap was just over the end of the rod up against the pressure plate. I removed the rod and took some vise grips, and clamped the vise grips onto the ball pretty good, and broke the ball off the end of the rod. and cleaned the end of the rod on a wire wheel on the bensh grinder then with some 200 grit sand paper and 600 grit sand paper to polish it up a bit. I flipped the rod around and used the side of the rod that would typically go against the clutch apply lever, towards the clutch pressure plate (how it already was on mine) I then went to Ace Hardware and bought a 1/4" bearing and a 5/16" bearing (the actual size is .27" which is directly between the 2 sizes) and compared them once I had all the parts together. The 1/4" bearing worked the best. the 5/16" would not slide in without force! so I didnt even try it. I just put the 1/4" ball in there and put it back together. so for you guys/ gals with the 86 style clutch push rod you can fix it to get you through with out spending $90 on parts that dont need replacing. Or you could even buy a new rod and this 1/4" bearing for cheap. easy as pie!
pro-fab
Neil
Next time you replace your center case bearings, keep the two used bearings with the yellow rubber seal, pry/cut the bearing cages away, keep the balls and use them for your clutch push rod…
Also; the kick starter ball bearing ball measures 6.33MM or .25” and works as well.
Pro-Fab 250R, aka MacGyver…
Carlos.
Also; the kick starter ball bearing ball measures 6.33MM or .25” and works as well.
Pro-Fab 250R, aka MacGyver…
Carlos.
LOL I am certainly all for being able to fix many different things with what is available, especially to get me through a trip. but please dont think that my quad is hacked together. LOL i am a profesional fabricator for a living. i often fix mechanical engineers design flaws and improve upon existing designs. I own a metal fabrication business and make good money doing it. I guess thats were I get what you would call my MacGyver skill set. However the things that I MacGyver are done so in as profesional of a manner as possible.
That should be a fun thread in the lounge forum. " What have you MacGyvered.
That should be a fun thread in the lounge forum. " What have you MacGyvered.
QUOTE(Pro-Fab 250R @ Jan 19 2011, 08:18 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=58032LOL I am certainly all for being able to fix many different things with what is available, especially to get me through a trip. but please dont think that my quad is hacked together. LOL i am a profesional fabricator for a living. i often fix mechanical engineers design flaws and improve upon existing designs. I own a metal fabrication business and make good money doing it. I guess thats were I get what you would call my MacGyver skill set. However the things that I MacGyver are done so in as profesional of a manner as possible.
That should be a fun thread in the lounge forum. " What have you MacGyvered.
I appreciate “MacGyver” skills, yours included…all good!
Carlos.
That should be a fun thread in the lounge forum. " What have you MacGyvered.
I appreciate “MacGyver” skills, yours included…all good!
Carlos.
Hi - see there haven't been posts to this for awhile but I have a Honda ATC 250R and believe the engine is similar to the TRX 250R. I am having clutch issues and the service manual suggests removing the clutch lifter rod to inspect and see if it is bent. I have it all pulled apart and it is still the '86 clutch because it is 3 pieces (clutch lifter, ball, and clutch lifter rod). The clutch lifter and ball came out no problem but I can't get the rod out? Is there any trick to releasing it? As you know it sits about 1/2" inside a tube and my needle nose pliers won't get a good enough grip to pull it out? Any other ideas on what is needed to remove/release this rod? Thanks Scott from Northern Utah
Actuate the clutch lever to it's full position forward, take fine tipped needle nose or hemostats and pull while working the clutch lever arm. If it does not come out; remove the clutch basket, grab Rod firmly and pull...
Carlos
Carlos
Carlos - perfect information by wiggling the clutch lever arm while pulling on the rod it released and came out. My rod appears straight but I am thinking about upgrading to the newer 1989 setup. (this would eliminate the need for the ball - any suggestions one way or other on this from you?) From what I can see to switch over to the 1989 rod and pressure plate I would be ordering part number: 0622-HB9-305 - Thanks again Scott
Yup, go with the 89 Up-Grade Kit....P/N 06220-HB9-305 is the complete Kit. If you can't find them locally, BDTM has a dozen in stock...
Carlos
Carlos
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