+3mill stroker where did you get this crank?

 

The crank is an oem longrod that i sent to esr to rebuild and stroke. I originally bought the crank from ebay.

 

okay so since you had a custom stroke made, why did you choose +3 ? in lieu of +5 or +4?

 

When i talked to esr about what i wanted out off the new motor they told me a +3 would have better lowend and is more reliable. Plus im not going to be dragging it. I originally thought +4 mil but tom at esr talked me into the +3. Since i first started the project ive heard mixed feelings about the +3. Ive heard it wasnt much different than the regular 330 non stroker. Ive spent alot of money in this build and was trying to get some feedback from people that have ridden this setup.

 

When i talked to esr about what i wanted out off the new motor they told me a +3 would have better lowend and is more reliable. Plus im not going to be dragging it. I originally thought +4 mil but tom at esr talked me into the +3. Since i first started the project ive heard mixed feelings about the +3. Ive heard it wasnt much different than the regular 330 non stroker. Ive spent alot of money in this build and was trying to get some feedback from people that have ridden this setup.

We would not recommend a +3MM over a +4MM for a few reasons; first the +4MM is the standard added stroke for HotRod aftermarket stroker cranks, not +2MM or +3MM, second a +4MM will make more bottom end & mid range TrQ than a +3MM, and third you have a lot more options with a +4MM as far as replacement crankshafts (HotRod +4MM off the shelf) & cylinders go, if your +3MM cylinder let's go or needs replacement, you will not likely find a +3Mm to replace with on the shelf, only +4MM, and since 90% of stroker engine builds are +4MM and not +3MM, you will have a better chance of finding a used or new replacement cylinder already set-up (ported) for +4MM than a +3MM...

Carlos

 

Agreed on all previous comments. Wow - a +3 instead of +4? Just another reason I want to drive to ESR and slap the s**t out of them. Terribly sorry you were misguided/misinformed.

 

Are you saying that anything besides a 4mm crank is a waste of time because hotrod makes a 4mm also? You do realize ESR has +2-+8 cranks available

 

They do their own cranks so the convenience of what Hot Rods has on the shelf to offer does not effect them. Don't sweat it.

 

Yeah i already bought all the parts and in the process of putting it all together now. Should be done by the weekend so ill update u guys on my 1st ride after i break it in. Im pretty frustrated that i was misguided on the +3 mil. I wish i would have gotten on this forum before this.

 

i wouldn't get your feathers ruffled up over it, the average guy probably will not see the difference or feel it.

what porting was done to this motor?
did they port match for the stroke?

 

Does anyone think that a rebuilt oem honda crank is better than a hotrods.

 

When talking about overall reliablity is the honda crank going to last longer than hotrods or not???

 

I would also upgrade the rod while split, but to answer your question. Yes

 

Yes the cylinder was port matched for this stroke. I had them port it for low to midrange power.

 

I built the exact motor minus the powervalve. ESR does not advertise it on the website. They call it the duners special or something like that. Very good reliable motor that does not over heat like the 370 does. No oversized radiator or excessive piston wear or thin indexed rod. I had the trx 9 porting on mine, but I wished I had gotten the trx 7 porting. It will out pull most of the 350 stock stroke pro-x that I have owned. This motor is designed to be the best setup without sacrificing power and reliability. It might not put out the peak power of a 370 but you will not run 240 degree temps on a hot day like the 370 will. It is a do it all motor imo.

I will mention this about the odd sized stroke. 95% of all the pro-x cylinders out there for sale are for stock stroke. So even if he did need a cylinder the odds of getting one for a 76 or 77mm stroke are only slightly better. I have said this many times before and esr has the right idea. A 3mm stroke is the threshold of reliability and efficiency on a pro-x casting.

While most of you have the right to disagree, I have ridden and tuned this setup and it is a very good combo and will suit all types or riding.

Everyone here knows there are many ways to build a good motor.

Robsessed88 it is a great motor that I know you will like.

 

I would not be real comfortable with a used rebuilt OEM crank unless the rod was changed, a brand new OEM crank that is stroked would be the best but even then it could be argued that the longer and stronger KTM rod would have been a better rod for this build.

I have seen a OEM rod break in half on 330 motor with a used stock stroke & rod on a OEM crank, its not pretty when window's both crank half's

I have had good luck with my hotrod connecting rods but I have to admit I would have felt a little better if I had bought a new OEM crank and had it stroked instead of the new Hotrod crank I went with.

 

The reason i ask about reliability with cranks is b/c i put a wiseco crank in my last motor which was a 265cc non-pv and the outer part of the crank blew apart after about 45 hours on it. Ive never quite seen anything like it before. Wiseco cranks r made cheaper with a tin-like metal that is packed full of lead. So when the crank blew up it literally blew chunks of lead all throughout the motor including the cylinder. So needless to say i had to buy a new head, cylinder had to be re-sleeved, new piston, new crank, etc etc. Ive heard nothing but great things about oem honda cranks.

 

Thanks everyone for ur help and suggestions. Much appreciated.