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TwOsTrOke

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok so I purchased my 86 TRX250r a month ago or so and ever since when I would rev it up any little bit in neutral I could hear some
roaring type sound from behind this cover right in front of the sprocket. Like an idiot I continued to run it. Seemed to be running fine
when I stopped but I did smell a burnt plastic smell afterwards. So next day, I go out to start it and it wouldn't go so I check for spark.
I get nothing. So I decide to take the cover off. Hmm.. whatdya know, some plastic pieces. Smells like burnt plastic. Now obviously,
I need a puller to get the flywheel off so I am going to order one but what I'd like to know is what might I be looking at, so far as
components I might need to fix this mess..

Stator & Flywheel ? Just the stator ? Also what type of stator & flywheel would best suit my need to tear it up on the track while not
spending a fortune.

Just wondering because I cant see whats going on behind that flywheel without the puller!!! arrrgh 27mmx1.0 IMA get you!! >_<

One more question regarding the laeger's rear swingarm on this bike.. Is it possible there is no chain adjustment??

I will add some pictures in a bit.
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Sounds like a stator for sure. Flywheels are usual ok.
I'd go back with stock or maybe a Rick stator if you're going to run bigger lights.
 
The third pic, thats part of the plastic end pieces from the stator windings. Something got inside under the flywheel & has chewed everything up. Could even be parts of the magnets came loose & chewed up the stator.

When your looking at the swingarm, those 4 chinch bolts at the rear hold the axle carrier in place.
Look at the carrier between the sprocket hub & the round part of the swingarm & should be some hole drilled into the carrier so you can incert a round pin to rotate it. The axle is off centered in the carrier & when you rotate the carrier it either loosens the chain or tightens it up.

Oh, & you need so rear brake pads cause those are worn out.
Neil
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Could even be parts of the magnets came loose & chewed up the stator.
I guess this means I might be needing a flywheel right? The magnets are made to the flywheel correct?

Oh, & you need so rear brake pads cause those are worn out.
Neil
lol, thanks I had noticed that. Any idea on what kind of caliper I need to buy pads for or will oem pads work on that caliper >?

thanks neil, this site is kickass!!
 
I guess this means I might be needing a flywheel right? The magnets are made to the flywheel correct?



lol, thanks I had noticed that. Any idea on what kind of caliper I need to buy pads for or will oem pads work on that caliper >?

thanks neil, this site is kickass!!

Maybe so then again maybe not on the flywheel. You'll need to pull it down & check it over first.
Those magnets just dont normally come out, could if someone was beating on it for some reason though.

Thats a stock TRX250R rear caliper so OEM pads will work. There is a bunch of aftermarket pads out there though, all different qualitys & price ranges.
Neil
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I am very sad to say I think I have found out what actually caused the stator to go bad.

Very sad because I believe that whats going on is in the crank bearing(s).

I can move the flywheel a little side to side which I almost know is not right.

Tomorrow my flywheel puller & brand new stator are coming so I guess once I get the flywheel off I will know for sure.

My real question is.. If I do have bad crank bearings does that automaticlly mean I need to replace the crank also or is it possible replacing just the bearings will fix.

C'mon guys, I need some input from the TRX250r experts!! I love this thing so I want it right!!

PLEASE HELP!
 
You don't automaticlly need a crank. For that reason. But once you are in there you're going to want to replace or rebuilt it.
As for the bearings. Your should be able to replace them. Another problem could be if they spun.
That will get into your case.

Not trying to scare you. Just want you to be ready for what could happen.

Anyone else have some info?
 
well if the crank looks ok and the rod has no up and down play i'd keep it. there should be no play in any direction with the crank, so new bearings and seals are in order. hopefully nothing else is bad.
 
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