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Burns350R

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Does anybody else have a problem of crushing the bottom of the silencer with the brake caliper and the axle. I have done it on both of my R's to all of my silencers i have had.

How do you guys combat this?
 
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#2 ·
I have never hit the exhaust with the caliper on any of my R's.

Two things that I can think of...

1) Silencer is mounted too low or in too much.
2) Shock is not set up to proper specs for your rear end linkage.

What are you running for the swingarm/linkage/shock on both Rs?
 
#3 ·
I have never hit the exhaust with the caliper on any of my R's.

Two things that I can think of...

1) Silencer is mounted too low or in too much.
2) Shock is not set up to proper specs for your rear end linkage.

What are you running for the swingarm/linkage/shock on both Rs?
Click to expand...
Thats what I was thinking as well & sometimes, the subframe can be bent around enough & placing the silencer right over top the caliper & cause it to happen.
I've seen bikes they spaced out the silencer away from the frame & b dog if the axle hit the silencer, man talk about shock travel.
Check that rubber bumper inside on the shock shaft that it is in good shape, that will change travel some but not much.
Neil
 
#4 ·
I had this problem with my old R. It didn't hit the caliper though, it hit the axle. Completely smashed 2 or 3 silencers and they were mounted correctly. I checked the length of the dogbone and it corresponded to my shock- both from an '86. I even bought a new shock that was revalved/resprung for me and it still smashed on bug jumps. I would be curious if you ever find out the problem, because I didn't. My current R has a Roll no-link swingarm and before I put the centermount on I had a regular exhaust and that did not hit the axle.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Stock linkage R. Laeger -1 swing arm. The frame is perfectly straigt on both of the R's and the silencer is spaced about 1 inch out from the frame to make it line up with the pipe freely.

The caliper is actually just gouging into the side of the silencer, and the axle is getting into the bottom of it. or Rad nut more likley is hitting it.

The Shock is a Custom axis single rate, rebuilt this past winter by them with probably less than 10 hours on it. Its set up for 200-210 lbs. Im probably 220 with race gear on.
 
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#6 ·
2 things ..
1,.. shock needs to resprung ( afterharket spring ) & revalved for your weight
2,.. might try using a small spacer between frame & silencer mount ,to move silencer out a little ..to miss caliper when the shock is compresed
 
#7 ·
Stock linkage R. Laeger -1 swing arm. The frame is perfectly straigt on both of the R's and the silencer is spaced about 1 inch out from the frame to make it line up with the pipe freely.

The caliper is actually just gouging into the side of the silencer, and the axle is getting into the bottom of it. or Rad nut more likley is hitting it.

The Shock is a Custom axis single rate, rebuilt this past winter by them with probably less than 10 hours on it. Its set up for 200-210 lbs. Im probably 220 with race gear on.
Click to expand...

You might want to think about getting your shock revalved for 220.
 
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#8 ·
The silencer on my bike has a big dent on the bottom of it. My personal opinion is take the springs off the shock, put it back in the bike and cycle the rear suspension by hand. Look and see exactly where it is hitting and make or adjust the mounting brackets as required. I went through a few different configurations to get mine to clear everything. I dont think putting a bit of pressure on the silencer to push it one way or the other is going to hurt it.
Revalving your shock isn't going to change how much travel you get out of your shock. Axis will have set the shock up to get the maximum possible wheel travel out of the stock linkage.
Move the silencer as necessary.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Silencer is spaced out approx 1 inch already, could go more, just dont understand why if no one else is having this issue. And the spring is set up for 210. Axis put a heavier spring on it. I could preload it more i guess.
 
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#10 ·
Your not the only one having the issue. Ive seen lots of silencers with dents in the bottom and or side. Tolerancing is the reason some have issues and some dont. Especially when you get into aftermarket frames. Every part is slightly different. And the aftermarket frames are even worse for it. When I switched to my arens frame I had to re jig my exhaust hangers. My gas tank fit a tiny bit differently under my plastics, etc.
Preloading your spring will not change the overall travel of your shock. It will change the level of plushness and ride height. If you [reload it your problem will not go away. You may bottom out slightly less frequently but it will still happen. There is nothing wrong with your shock bottoming out, if you ride mx it should bottom on the biggest hits on the track. Not harshly, but it should bottom out.
Sorry I got off topic. Can you post a picture of your exhaust set up?
 
#11 ·
I have done it on a LSR no link and Laeger CR link. Yes the suspension is set up correctly for me and fresh-it just uses the whole travel. The LSR hit the caliper and I know I have bottomed it on the MX from coming up short or over shooting the landing and the LAE hit the axle to my suprise. The LAE is a XC bike - I was shocked at this one as that day was recently with a new silencer and new shock from AXIS. When I saw the silencer dent my buddy commented how my bikes uses the full travel of the shock and floats ober the terrain - I never felt a bottom out type feeling or had reason to believe or remeber a cause no mx stuff. I have AXIS on both of these bikes- PTR race pipe and fatboy on the LSR and LRD pipe with FMF turbinecore spark arrestor on the LAE if that matters. I have seen numerous other bikes or silencers for sale with the popular dent. all of my mounting hardware is factory stock and ther may be a spacer used where needed but nothing to lower the mounting.
 
#13 ·
Stock linkage R. Laeger -1 swing arm. The frame is perfectly straigt on both of the R's and the silencer is spaced about 1 inch out from the frame to make it line up with the pipe freely.

The caliper is actually just gouging into the side of the silencer, and the axle is getting into the bottom of it. or Rad nut more likley is hitting it.

The Shock is a Custom axis single rate, rebuilt this past winter by them with probably less than 10 hours on it. Its set up for 200-210 lbs. Im probably 220 with race gear on.
Click to expand...

Did Custom Axis set the travel lengths for the -1 swingarm?

I don't see the the 20lbs (max) being the issue of the exhaust hitting. It may not be "optimal" but close enough (I guess at my riding gear weight as well)...

If the shock is not bottomed out when the exhaust hits, then it is a problem with the exhaust bend/hangers.

Take the rear shock off and bring the swingarm through the travel. Measure the distance between mounting holes (center) when you are hitting something (linkage hits/exhaust hits). Find out from axis what the compressed length of the shock you have is set to.

I would say that your exhaust needs to move up (away from axle) and out (away from caliper). Every exhaust I have mounted requires different spacers and heights.

Going from memory....
LRD exhaust was about 3/4 inch out from frame mount and almost 2 inches down.
Sparks exhaust was about 2 inches out and in line with the frame hole.

This was just from the bends and where it naturally needed to be. The LRD is oval (thinner) than the Sparks silencers which might explain why it could be closer to the frame?
 
#14 ·
i have the same problem, The CT and FMF both have dents. This is on one of my atc's and i weigh 150lbs, The atc also has a nice rebuilt trx shock on it, I think if it bottoms out some of the silencers are going to hit
 
#15 ·
spacers on the rear silencer mount FTW
:)
 
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atvmxr
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