Ok so I just gusseted my stock frame and it's at powder coat now. I was wondering if a good aftermarket frame would be worth it? I'm setting up my R to race hard cc. Without selling my quad to pay for it how much is an aftermarket frame? Would 1000 get me a decent one? What are good brands a d where do you even find them?
Opinions on aftermarket frame?
1986_trx
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Ok so I just gusseted my stock frame and it's at powder coat now. I was wondering if a good aftermarket frame would be worth it? I'm setting up my R to race hard cc. Without selling my quad to pay for it how much is an aftermarket frame? Would 1000 get me a decent one? What are good brands a d where do you even find them?
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4,308 Posts
arrens frame or nothing and you can find one for $1000 and under used..but imo nothing wrong with oem.
Most aftermarket frames are designed for long travel suspension. While you might be able to get a frame around the $1k price point, you would still need shocks, a-arms and swing arm.
If you are looking for more travel, then consider aftermarket. Otherwise I would suggest to run your reinforced frame and see how it holds up
Best regards
-Jason
If you are looking for more travel, then consider aftermarket. Otherwise I would suggest to run your reinforced frame and see how it holds up
Best regards
-Jason
2ndMoto isn’t completely correct. The only time suspension geometry that really changes on an aftermarket is, if it’s a no-link or cr500 link. Secondly if the front is a narrow frame, but that doesn’t make it long travel. “Long travel” is kind of a gimmic word. As most set-ups will have ROUGHLY 10 inches of wheel travel whether it’s long travel or standard travel. What’s really changing is the shock length and the shock shaft length. But this is done with changing the position on the a-arm mount, not on the frame. I say save your money and run the frame you have until it can no longer be financially viable to repair. Your biggest hold back of a stock frame is the rear linkage. It’s progression rate is not very desirable. I’d recommend a no-link frame for XC. Not just for it’s ground clearance advance, but it has a fixed leverage ratio. Im running a stock frame with a custom linkage and swing arm next year.
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4,308 Posts
arrens frames arnt made anymore and imo are the strongest and oem actually fit unlike most other aftermarket frames.as the other guy said lt a arms and shocks are really only 1/2'' longer.it's just the angle and shock bodys that are different..st shocks are fine and i also disagree about the no link.oem rear suspancion works great.have a no link with a laydown shock isnt the best.and having the shock set-up 100% is inportant.
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4,159 Posts
This is the best advise hands down . Stock frames work fine. i run one on my XC bike. Long Travel is a gimmick. and dont spend extra money on a cr500 link unless you want to be really serious about racing. No links are better than a standard 250r link and there are options to convert your stock frame to a no link. Check out ISF racing if you want to go no link.
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4,159 Posts
The reason narrow front is better is because of the reduction in bump steer. the pivot point of the a arm is nearly the same as the tie rod end. Narrow front end is just as significant of an improvement if you are a serious racer. Also i run a no link with a stock air box. Im not sure why everyone has so much issues.
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