I was riding quad and all of the sudden it bogged down and QUIT...after checking a few things, I'm finding out that it has NO SPARK. Could CDI be a problem, or stator, coil? Just wondering some of your thoughts before I start trial and error. I was gonna start swapping parts from another quad one at a time but wanted input 1st. Thanks
DFresh15
make sure its not just your kill switch, if stock kill light switch just unplug and it will be in the normal run position,
then check your coil plugs to make sure they are good, also make sure your plug boot has a good connection, then check ALL your connections, the cdi has a couple of plugs that have been known to fail...
give all the connectors a close inspection to see if there are any dark or burnt spots indicating heat meaning high resistance in other words poor connection..
then once your sure its not just a connection, start taking resistance readings on the stator, and pulse generator and coil,
as for cdi you need to swap it out is about the best way to test it
then check your coil plugs to make sure they are good, also make sure your plug boot has a good connection, then check ALL your connections, the cdi has a couple of plugs that have been known to fail...
give all the connectors a close inspection to see if there are any dark or burnt spots indicating heat meaning high resistance in other words poor connection..
then once your sure its not just a connection, start taking resistance readings on the stator, and pulse generator and coil,
as for cdi you need to swap it out is about the best way to test it
Thanks man. Sounds good. Never thought of the kill switch thing but quad was running great and then quit
It could be a number of things, but like Dnb said, test the electrical components. A good service manual will have Honda specs as to what your test results should read.
This will probably sound crazy, years past before we got the CR ignition system, the R would lose spark & I would pull off the flywheel cover & spray everything down real good with WD40 & it would go back to sparking.
I have heard of OEM TRX ignitions loosing spark & some owners would take a real small C clamp & put it right in the center of the CDI box & apply a small amount of pressure with the clamp & it would start back sparking.
Best thing you can do for your R, is the CR ignition set up.
know it is a big chunk of money to flop down & it even took me a while to go ahead & bite the bullet, but since, it has been trouble free & ignition problems no more.
Neil
I have heard of OEM TRX ignitions loosing spark & some owners would take a real small C clamp & put it right in the center of the CDI box & apply a small amount of pressure with the clamp & it would start back sparking.
Best thing you can do for your R, is the CR ignition set up.
know it is a big chunk of money to flop down & it even took me a while to go ahead & bite the bullet, but since, it has been trouble free & ignition problems no more.
Neil
Probably 7 out of 10, it will be those connectors in the haness causing no spark or either the CDI box itself.
Most of the time, what some ignition people have found, the connector on the CDI box, the male pin down in the connector box that connects with the black wire with white strip in the harness, that pin has broken loose from the board inside the CDI box & even though it sounds crazy, that little bit of pressure from that c clamp will make to connect again.
I've seen some, that just bending the harness around where it connects to the CDI box & taking a plastic tye to hold the harness in place, keep that bend in it, will make the CDI start back sparking.
Neil
Most of the time, what some ignition people have found, the connector on the CDI box, the male pin down in the connector box that connects with the black wire with white strip in the harness, that pin has broken loose from the board inside the CDI box & even though it sounds crazy, that little bit of pressure from that c clamp will make to connect again.
I've seen some, that just bending the harness around where it connects to the CDI box & taking a plastic tye to hold the harness in place, keep that bend in it, will make the CDI start back sparking.
Neil
Intermittent shorts, or forced contact shorts are not good....just a problem waiting to resurface again, IMO
Carlos
Carlos
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Great find Barry. How would you reseal that CDI once repaired though? My first thought was Plasti Dip the board to seal it but I'm not sure if that stuff is safe to use on electrical components or not.
Glad to see you Barry dive deeper into the CDI issues...can only be a good thing for the 250R community IMO.
It has been my experience that when the OEM CDI fails, it is usually one of the components. We had a good electronic engineer we used for a while trying to repair the CDI's by diagnosing the bad component. The issue with these repairs is the CDI's re old and most components are weak, so even if you repair one component, the likely hood of another failure occurring is good. As a builder/seller of parts, it made selling/repairing and warranting these CDI's not a good business decision.
However; for some it may be worth the effort to try to do their own repairs. We have had the OEM CDI re-versed engineered for future use. Once our current stock of new OEM 88 and 89 CDI's runs out, we will get some made if the OEM manufacture in Japan does not want to make any more.
Carlos
It has been my experience that when the OEM CDI fails, it is usually one of the components. We had a good electronic engineer we used for a while trying to repair the CDI's by diagnosing the bad component. The issue with these repairs is the CDI's re old and most components are weak, so even if you repair one component, the likely hood of another failure occurring is good. As a builder/seller of parts, it made selling/repairing and warranting these CDI's not a good business decision.
However; for some it may be worth the effort to try to do their own repairs. We have had the OEM CDI re-versed engineered for future use. Once our current stock of new OEM 88 and 89 CDI's runs out, we will get some made if the OEM manufacture in Japan does not want to make any more.
Carlos
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