i bought a tusk clutch not to long ago and its slipping as bad as the old on and it dose not have much time on it. has anyone had any suggestions on a good clutch that is a good price?
whats the best clutch to run?
dyllan
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1,605 Posts
I would stick with a OEM clutch...
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343 Posts
personally i LOOOOVE my dirt digger clutch! works fantastic, and lasts a long time.
its somewhat pricy but its the kind of cluch you could drop in 4th gear and go if you really really wanted to!
I've always had good luck with Barnett, so long you soak it in oil.
its somewhat pricy but its the kind of cluch you could drop in 4th gear and go if you really really wanted to!
I've always had good luck with Barnett, so long you soak it in oil.
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681 Posts
Yes i have for my 400ex and they stood up and were strong but never on a 250r, good cost thou
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284 Posts
What supernutt said!!! Oem only and if you have a big bore use the 89 oem "Neil's" heavy duty upgrade.....it's the only way to go I bought a tusk one time and it was the worst $60 I ever spent!!!! Completely destroyed it in 2 hrs
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4,272 Posts
Will you guys do something for me ?.
Take a TRX250R clutch system, pull it apart & study it & understand how it works. It is not really much to a clutch system & will be a simple task for you to do. Once you've looked it over closely & see what each piece of the whole system has to do, you'll understand how easy it is, the small things you can do to make the cluch plates last almost forever.
Once you've studied it, you'll see that it is all about how much pressure those 5 spring can push on the pressure plate & compact all those fiber & steel plates together, making them stick to each other & not slip.
The thicker you can make the total clutch pack, steel & fiber plates, the farther that pack will push out on the pressure plate, pressing on those springs & the harder those springs will push back compacting all the plates together.
When the fiber plates wear, you loose thickness of the whole clutch pack & in turn it creates even less pressure from the springs pushing on the pressure plate. Once so much wear has been created on the fiber plates, the clutch will get to a point, where the pressure plate could bottom out on the inner clutch basket & then the clutch grasp is history after that point.
So, thicker clutch pack can create higher gripping pressure & so can heavier stronger springs, but the total clutch pack being thicker, can provide a bit more travel that the pressure plate can use up & in turn make the clutch last & work longer.
Try this trick just as a test, those worn out fiber plates you have laying around, pull the clutch apart & using those worn out fibers, put the pack back together using them, but add in one extra steel plate to the pack right in the middle & then try the quad out & see what it does.
Neil
Take a TRX250R clutch system, pull it apart & study it & understand how it works. It is not really much to a clutch system & will be a simple task for you to do. Once you've looked it over closely & see what each piece of the whole system has to do, you'll understand how easy it is, the small things you can do to make the cluch plates last almost forever.
Once you've studied it, you'll see that it is all about how much pressure those 5 spring can push on the pressure plate & compact all those fiber & steel plates together, making them stick to each other & not slip.
The thicker you can make the total clutch pack, steel & fiber plates, the farther that pack will push out on the pressure plate, pressing on those springs & the harder those springs will push back compacting all the plates together.
When the fiber plates wear, you loose thickness of the whole clutch pack & in turn it creates even less pressure from the springs pushing on the pressure plate. Once so much wear has been created on the fiber plates, the clutch will get to a point, where the pressure plate could bottom out on the inner clutch basket & then the clutch grasp is history after that point.
So, thicker clutch pack can create higher gripping pressure & so can heavier stronger springs, but the total clutch pack being thicker, can provide a bit more travel that the pressure plate can use up & in turn make the clutch last & work longer.
Try this trick just as a test, those worn out fiber plates you have laying around, pull the clutch apart & using those worn out fibers, put the pack back together using them, but add in one extra steel plate to the pack right in the middle & then try the quad out & see what it does.
Neil
Always scratched up steel plates(both sides) on rough cement floor,while soaking fibers in fresh tranny oil that's used to refill tranny(5-10 min).Used CR500 springs.This worked great for me for MX,then again i only weigh 150lbs.There are a lot of variables that determine clutch life,light or heavy rider,size of motor,powerband of motor(low,mid,hi) surface ridden on,gearing,riding style....but like ^^^^^ use oem.
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436 Posts
so what is Neil's mod, the adding of a steel to the clutch pack?
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498 Posts
Im surprised some of you guys have had trouble with the tusk clutch plates. Maybe the fibers were not soaked in oil long enough? I soak my new
plates for about 24 hours. I have never had a tusk clutch fail prematurely in any of the bikes ive put them in.
plates for about 24 hours. I have never had a tusk clutch fail prematurely in any of the bikes ive put them in.
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13,288 Posts
Hard to beat Honda OEM....more costly, however, IMO they are the best clutch components to run. We eve use them on high HP Big Bore engines with good success. We also run Honda CR500 springs, kne Drainwasher under each spring, and a 400eX steel plate substituting for one Honda TRX250R steel plate.
Carlos
I just bought a bone stock 88 250R and thought the clutch pulled abnormaly hard. I took the cover off, took everything apart, cleaned and inspected it. Then lubricated as needed and reassembled, a little better but still stiffer than my week butt wants to squeeze while putzing through the woods. As far as I can tell the springs are OEM(HD), I was contemplating going to the 86-87 PEM springs(std). But I see mention of running CR500 springs, is this a better route? Again, the bike is bone stock(exhaust, airbox, reeds, everything). And I just use it to ride through the woods and around the local farmland.
Does anyone have an extra steel plate they wouldn't mind selling me? Why use the 400EX plate in place of one OEM plate, thicker?
-Adam
Does anyone have an extra steel plate they wouldn't mind selling me? Why use the 400EX plate in place of one OEM plate, thicker?
-Adam
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1,331 Posts
Don't bother with the Tusk kit, my old Blaster burnt up a set of those junk plates in only a few rides.
Stick to OEM plates. I use 250R springs with drain plug washers behind them. The more pressure you put on those plates the better.
Also, make sure you have the 89' clutch update kit, paired with Neil's clutch upgrade
Stick to OEM plates. I use 250R springs with drain plug washers behind them. The more pressure you put on those plates the better.
Also, make sure you have the 89' clutch update kit, paired with Neil's clutch upgrade
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