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JoePA

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My engine started making a wierd noise earlier in the season. Didn't think much of it at the time but it only is getting worse. So, tonight I decided to do some investigating. I checked my counterbalancer and found one of the ears broke off on the bearing holder when I pulled the stator cover. OK no biggie that must have been it. But I figured I would check everything while I was at it. I grabbed the flywheel and went to try to move it and noticed i had side to side movement, quite a bit. So I pulled the clutch cover to make sure nothing came loose and all good under there.

My question is why the side to side movement? I replaced the crank and new bearings two years ago with a Hotrods crank and cr500 bearings. Could it be the bearings are shot already? I did have a head gasket go and burned up some antifreeze but not a lot. Any other ideas?​
 
I know this is a dumb question, but is the flywheel tight? Im assuming you checked an that it is.

About the only other thing it could be is the bearings are sliding in the case. Did the fit tight when you pushed them in?

Is there any up and down play? With a ball beaing, if you have an slop it should move in both the radial and axial directions because the groves wear out giving slop. If the axial movment is tight, (which i assume it is) then you got something else moving. Most likley the bearings in the case. ALthough im not even sure how that would work.

I probably should stop there and let some one more qualified take over hahahahahaha.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Flywheel is right. It's moves the gears that drive the cointerbalancer and the clutch basket. To be honest they felt tight when I installed them but who knows. Very, very little up and down movement. I got the bearings from Carlos that had the inside race machine the slights amount so the crank slides on but I can't see that causing issues. Just sucks cuz this is the last thing I need to worry about! LOL
 
bearing

your bearing in the stator side case it no longer staying in place. it is sliding in and out of case u have two options. if its under 1000 play u can green lock tight it. or do what im having done now. have a shop press a steel sleeve in the the bearing back in. the shop told me to lock tight it but i went with sleeve
 
Sounds like the bearings are loose in the cases, or the shafts on the crank are loose on the bearings. When you put it together, fhe bearings fit tight onto the cases, and the shaft was snug on the bearing I.D.....the side to side play is the extra width the cases have over the crankshaft width....

IMO it is time to split the cases, and inspect the bearings, crank and cases...

Carlos
 
Full floating crank now.... Haha. You need one of those bearings locked tot he crank to stop it from floating. Souns like you have some work ahead of you splitting cases.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Yeah I do kyle!! Sad part is I had a brand new set of bearings and seals and now I hae no idea where they went. After all the 4 strokes I've been repairing and rebuilding on the side, the 250R engine will feel like a clutch change!! LOL I'm going to spilt them tonight and see what I come up with.

Thanks again fellas for the input!!
 
Let us know what you find. I hadnt heard of machining a bearing before. I always just run the 9 ball oem bearings and press them in.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Ok do you press it on the crank first or the case? I did a 450R where I pressed it ont he crank first, crank int he freezer and the bearing in the sun and poof right on then stuck the crank back in the freezer and let the case half sit in the sun and poof! Super smooth and super easy.

Ok where do I find quality bearings at a decent price. This last set put me back and didn't last.
 
OEM bearings from honda would be where i start. Im sure BDT has them in stock as well.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thats whats in it now from BDT but the machined ones. Now is the worst time for this to happen and I'm still in need of a Ccounter balancer bearing holder. For me when stuff breaks..it breaks the bank!
 
I have never ran machined bearings. Not sure what the benifit is.
 
Joe::

The I.D. ground bearings are made for the HotRod crankshaft, they are I.D. one is ground plus .00032" bigger, the other is ground .00023" bigger. The two bigger diameters match the extra size of the HotRod crankshaft 'shafts' verses the OEM crankshaft. Both bearing need to be installed into the center cases, and then the crankshaft will pull in.

The installation procedures are the same as for OEM....pull your bearings, make sure they fit tight into the cases, if you like you can send the bearings to BDT, include the crank if you like, and we will inspect at N/C for you.

Carlos
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Carlos,
Thank you! Yes, I remember now you saying that they were for the hotrods crank and you did have the bearings labled as to what side they went to. Sounds more like the bearing is walking in the case??

If the case/s are bad....options other than find better/new cases?
 
Sleeve and bore the case main bearing bores....no need for new cases. Note all the bearings we have I.D. ground are sized with a Sunnen PG guage to .0001" tolerance. These are also sized to the newer HotRod cranks, and not the older ones made over 2 years ago. The older HotRod cranks were all over the place on the shaft diameters, some loser and some tighter...FYI

I will help you if I can, I can accurately measure the bearing I.D. and crankshaft 'shaft' diameter, you just pay shipping.

Carlos
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Ok, I found the problem/s. The first thing is the bearings. They are worn out and not sure why. The second thing is the bearing is loose in the right side case. I don't know how to fix that other than locktighting it in or just replace the case half. Looks like I'll be ordering up another set of bearings and seals. Let me know what you think.I should do with the case issue.
 
They make a lock tite called bearing and stud mount. It works great for loose bearings.
 
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