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Pretty much the best you can buy
 

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Tool-less assembly. Looks sweet and is of the highest quality. I probably wouldn't buy anything else. However, I have never installed and/or ridden a bike with the Boyesen RAD Valve
 

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I just bought a set to replace my duncan pyramids with...nothing wrong with the duncans...just wana try them.
 

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The vf 3 is a generic cage look at the design the pedal area is used on all 250 bikes, the adaptor plate is is the only special part. The vf2 will out perform the 3 across the board but neither are the best setup for a mx build, Stick to a rad valve or pyramid. I used to have a link to a forum where a member did a dyno comparison of them all, but i dont know that i could find it anymore.
 

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The vf 3 is a generic cage look at the design the pedal area is used on all 250 bikes, the adaptor plate is is the only special part. The vf2 will out perform the 3 across the board but neither are the best setup for a mx build, Stick to a rad valve or pyramid. I used to have a link to a forum where a member did a dyno comparison of them all, but i dont know that i could find it anymore.
Someone did some testing w/ the VF2's and 3's on quadzilla motors as well a while back. They also stated that the VF2's were THE reeds to get and were superior to the VF3's.... Supposedly, MT redesigned the VF3's at some point along the way, and they re-made them to be more like the 2's....

Has anyone tried out the 4's yet?
 

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The VForce3's made in the past year are as good as any Reed set you are going to find. The Vforce2's are good, however; I preffer the VForce3's for Duner's, TT, MX, and Drag engines.

We have a couple of sets of VForce4's to try; just have not had the time to Dyno them out.

Carlos
 

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I currently run the VF3 also and I Think they are great. Carlos please keep us posted on the VF4, I saw they were being made only for the ktm-sx's when I purchased my VF3 or else I probably would have went that route.
 

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I ran the vf 3's on my 87 I had and I wasn't that impressed. I like the rad valve a lot better for the type of riding I do which is tight trails and xc racing.
 

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The VForce3's made in the past year are as good as any Reed set you are going to find. The Vforce2's are good, however; I preffer the VForce3's for Duner's, TT, MX, and Drag engines.

We have a couple of sets of VForce4's to try; just have not had the time to Dyno them out.

Carlos
What changes did they make to the new vf3? if i remember right they where like 2 hp behind the ESR and like 1.5 behind the VF2, i cant see them making that up without major changes. Also not to mention pedal life on the vf2's is longer than on the 3's (from my experience) How does the vf4 look? I will still probably stick to a rad valve for mid/low engines, and ESR for topend.
 

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didnt know vf4 was available for hondas yet ? got some for a ktm but havent compared side by side to vf3. just from quick glance i seen the leading edge on the airfoil is different shape.
 

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I've only ran oem, 97 cr 250 boot and cage and a rad valve on my R, although my 05 yz250 has V3's. All work good, but I like the cr 250 stuff for my R. Rad Valve works fine though. I know it apples to oranges comparing the the R to the YZ, but the V3 work good on the YZ. IMO the V force and cr250 stuff like higher rpms where as the rad valve seems to work better at lower rpm's, but it does rev out as well. I think a dyno is the only place where you may see much of a difference, besides the cost of buying replacement reeds. I'd say go for whatever you can get a deal on. Other things like porting make much more of a difference and don't cost that much more compared to the $150-$200 that a NEW cage will cost you.
 

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The VForce4's we have are a prototype set only, not available (as far as I know) on the market yet. They do look different than the VForce3's and 2's. As far as perfromance differences between the reed assemblies; on our Dyno the VForce 3's are superior to the rest for Mid to WOT. We have yet to test the VForce4's...

I don't suggest buying or using machined Reed sets with Pedals held by multiple screws..these have been known to loose screws and damage cylinders & pistons.

Carlos
 

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So you're saying don't use a fmf ram valve, duncan pyramid, mossberg, rad valve, cr250, or oem? I'm sure there is a couple of others I prob left out.
 

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Not everyone is interested in peak hp. I've never had a screw come loose, but it is possible although it sounds more like a poor maintenance/installation issue. It's not like the engineers at honda didn't know what they were doing. Also your motor ingesting anything other than fuel and air is likely to cause damage. If a few grains of sand will cause damage, then what do you think chunks/pieces of carbon fiber will do? There are chances you take running any product and nothing is foolproof. I'm just saying. Personally I'll stick to my cr cage and boot on my R and my V 3's that came on my yz250. I'm quite happy with both. IMO it all just depends on what type of motor you're building and what kind of power you want out of your engine. Obviously everyone will have different opinions and I'm just stating mine, not trying to start a keyboard war.
 
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