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Hello. Im having trouble with 87 330 build. Brand new wiring harness, brand new Janssen coil, brand new ricky stator, brand new flywheel. No spark. I ended up swapping to my atc stator and flywheel because the ricky stator had a very large gap between the pulse generator and flywheel. The oem atc pulse generator and flywheel has a much tighter gap. Still no spark. Everything ohms out good. Really at a loss. Im thinking my cdi is bad. I have a second one but no way to know if that one is good. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
 

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Guess guys have been buying Ricky stator's and they not been producing spark brand new outa the box. What brand fly wheel that's brand new? Oem hopefully? Check to make sure you have a solid ground connection. Only way to tell if other cdi is good is plug it in and test kick. I'm no expert just throwing out ideas.
 

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Guess guys have been buying Ricky stator's and they not been producing spark brand new outa the box. What brand fly wheel that's brand new? Oem hopefully? Check to make sure you have a solid ground connection. Only way to tell if other cdi is good is plug it in and test kick. I'm no expert just throwing out ideas.
Brand new oem flywheel. Currently have my used atc flywheel and stator on it. I ended up running a ground from the engine block to a bare metal spot on the frame. My wiring harness is also grounded to bare metal on the frame.
 

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You should have a ground from your harness to the frame. Do you have a key provision in your harness? What kill switch do you have? I once bought a 87 harness off a fella and in my haste I connected the two wires to the key switch. They basically grounded out the ignition so no spark. I couldn't understand why the R wouldn't fire. I tried every cdi I had, every stator, and every coil. I ended up going to bed stumped. I woke up in the middle of the night and jumped out of bed because I had a dream that I plugged in the two leads for the key switch. I unplugged them and to my wife's dissatisfaction I kicked that R one time and it fired!
So the point of my ramblings is this..... double, triple, and quadruple check everything and then try kicking it over. I'm leaning towards a ground or something isn't connected correctly.
Loren
 
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You should have a ground from your harness to the frame. Do you have a key provision in your harness? What kill switch do you have? I once bought a 87 harness off a fella and in my haste I connected the two wires to the key switch. They basically grounded out the ignition so no spark. I couldn't understand why the R wouldn't fire. I tried every cdi I had, every stator, and every coil. I ended up going to bed stumped. I woke up in the middle of the night and jumped out of bed because I had a dream that I plugged in the two leads for the key switch. I unplugged them and to my wife's dissatisfaction I kicked that R one time and it fired!
So the point of my ramblings is this..... double, triple, and quadruple check everything and then try kicking it over. I'm leaning towards a ground or something isn't connected correctly.
Loren
"To my wife's dissatisfaction"
I kinda chuckle a bit on that one, only because I've been in a similar situation.
I have nothing really to add other than triple check everything. It's easy to miss something, especially when you are fed up.
 

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Hello. Im having trouble with 87 330 build. Brand new wiring harness, brand new Janssen coil, brand new ricky stator, brand new flywheel. No spark. I ended up swapping to my atc stator and flywheel because the ricky stator had a very large gap between the pulse generator and flywheel. The oem atc pulse generator and flywheel has a much tighter gap. Still no spark. Everything ohms out good. Really at a loss. Im thinking my cdi is bad. I have a second one but no way to know if that one is good. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
No key and no kill switch yet. I have the two kill switch wires from the harness open.
Use only OEM components (CDI specially), Ricky Stator 'Stators' are usually very good, if not, call Ricky Stator. Mike the owner fully stands behind his product, and if defective he will replace it. Connectors, wires, ON/OFF switch, are usually responsible for a lot of the IGN issues....make sure all are clean, and checked.

Double check everything to Honda OEM manual & specifications using an OHM meter. The CDI can only be checked with an Oscilloscope & 'breadboard' spinning the stator through the RPM range, or by swapping out with known good working CDI's.

If you want to send in your complete IGN to BDT...BDT has our own complete electronic setup and we can check complete IGN's (CDI, Stator, Coil, Wire Harness, Coil, ect...) to insure they function as designed.

At times, what appears as IGN issues is not. The Honda OEM stock spark is very weak even when all components are good. Also not the engine must be kick started above 750 RPM's to generate a spark....and then it is hardly visible. I suggest the following:

Check all components to OEM specs
Set Spark Plug Gap at .018"
Poor a table spoon of fuel into the spark plug hole
Aggressively kick the engine over, if it fires for a second or two...the IGN is fine and you have fuel flow related issues.

Carlos
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Use only OEM components (CDI specially), Ricky Stator 'Stators' are usually very good, if not, call Ricky Stator. Mike the owner fully stands behind his product, and if defective he will replace it. Connectors, wires, ON/OFF switch, are usually responsible for a lot of the IGN issues....make sure all are clean, and checked.

Double check everything to Honda OEM manual & specifications using an OHM meter. The CDI can only be checked with an Oscilloscope & 'breadboard' spinning the stator through the RPM range, or by swapping out with known good working CDI's.

If you want to send in your complete IGN to BDT...BDT has our own complete electronic setup and we can check complete IGN's (CDI, Stator, Coil, Wire Harness, Coil, ect...) to insure they function as designed.

At times, what appears as IGN issues is not. The Honda OEM stock spark is very weak even when all components are good. Also not the engine must be kick started above 750 RPM's to generate a spark....and then it is hardly visible. I suggest the following:

Check all components to OEM specs
Set Spark Plug Gap at .018"
Poor a table spoon of fuel into the spark plug hole
Aggressively kick the engine over, if it fires for a second or two...the IGN is fine and you have fuel flow related issues.

Carlos
Thank you for the information Carlos. I appreciate it. Can I email you and get a quote for having you bench test my ignition system? I have tried everything I can think of other than dumping money into cdi boxes on eBay.
 
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