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Discussion Starter #1
I recently read an article from 4-5 years ago praising the OEM brake pads. They made it sound like they are much better than aftermarket pads and said they were really impressed with them. Is this true in the opinion of this board? I have the stock front brakes with new stainless lines and either EBC or SBS pads, you know the pads shops keep around. I haven't run with the stock pads in a long time and they were pretty much worn out when I had them. The brakes right now really aren't all that good. I have already ajdusted the position of the OEM lever to maximize hand leverage -- which did help. Perhaps I should try OEM pads before committing to a 450R brake and spindle swap?
 

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My oems were good but they we're wearing out. Tried streamline rear pads and they work just fine. They lock up the rear tires and bring me to a halt quickly. I can't say how they are on the front because I'm in the midst of a 450 swap on the front.
 

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I've rebuilt all the oem calipers & mc's on both my R's using shindy rebuild kits & braided lines. The fronts on both R's are running oem pads, one set is the old originals still in good shape & the other set has nos oem front pads & both work great & stop on a dime. Making the entire system fresh with rebuilds & braided lines made the biggest difference for my brakes. Both rear calipers have ebc pads & they perform just as good as the fronts.
 

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My R has oem front they seem a lil squishy will be getting new fluid. But they seem good and stop me just fine. I went galfner rear wave with ebc pads and a ss line. I don’t think it’s worth the money but stops good. I have also heard the oem 250r brakes in working order are hard to beat. 🍻
 

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I forgot I also have a galfer rear rotor on one of the R's & stock rear rotor on the other, don't notice a difference between the 2 but I got the wave rotor for cheap so.... Both have stock front rotor's. Having them turned like Big Mike did would help the performance as well... The first set I rebuilt also had a squishy feel but it was just an air bubble, finally worked it out & now there very responsive & feel nice & firm.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've rebuilt all the oem calipers & mc's on both my R's using shindy rebuild kits & braided lines. The fronts on both R's are running oem pads, one set is the old originals still in good shape & the other set has nos oem front pads & both work great & stop on a dime. Making the entire system fresh with rebuilds & braided lines made the biggest difference for my brakes. Both rear calipers have ebc pads & they perform just as good as the fronts.
The EBCs or SBSs or whatever (probably EBC) I put on the rear are working out fine for me as well, so I'm mostly looking at a change in the fronts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will any place that turns car rotors also do 250R rotors or should they be taken to a machine shop?
 

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If you know of any good machine shops with competent machinists that would be my first choice. I'd have a hard time trusting a place like meineke or something like that, reason being is my dad's first job as a machinist was turning brakes at a forklift manufacturing plant. Point is they give those jobs to the less experienced guys.
 

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Brake rotors can be hard to machine true on a traditional lathe. A brake lathe cuts both sides at the same time so you have equal pressure on both sides of the brake rotor. When using a traditional lathe if it has enough swing you can cut the outward facing surface and then flip the tool post and tool holder, travel around the rotor then cut the inward facing surface. If you can hang the rotor out of the chuck far enough to get between the chuck and the rotor. The other problem is indicating off the flange of the rotor to get it to run out true. You can't indicate off the braking surface as they are probably warped (why surface a good rotor). Rotors machined on a lathe almost always cause vibration.
To try and do all that with an atv or motorcycle rotor would be very difficult. As soon as you start to cut the rotor the tool pressure would cause the rotor to deflect. Then you flip the rotor and machine the other side and then repeat the deflection. You would most likely end up with a "wave" rotor that would cause some serious brake lever/pedal pulsing! You can buy a tusk rear rotor for about the same price as getting a machine shop to screw up your old rotor.
Loren
 

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send 2 bdt. they have a grinder. n grind rotors flat. all time.


i have the best. bdt built engines.
bdt261 oem
bdt363 prox
bdt391 ceo
bdt431 puma

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I recently read an article from 4-5 years ago praising the OEM brake pads. They made it sound like they are much better than aftermarket pads and said they were really impressed with them. Is this true in the opinion of this board? I have the stock front brakes with new stainless lines and either EBC or SBS pads, you know the pads shops keep around. I haven't run with the stock pads in a long time and they were pretty much worn out when I had them. The brakes right now really aren't all that good. I have already ajdusted the position of the OEM lever to maximize hand leverage -- which did help. Perhaps I should try OEM pads before committing to a 450R brake and spindle swap?
Will any place that turns car rotors also do 250R rotors or should they be taken to a machine shop?
OEM Pads are the 'Best'....Streamline, EBC, ect...are good, just not as good IMO. Usually it's the Rotor in combination with the Pads that causes brake issues.

Motorcycle, Quad, or Trike rotors are to thin for an Auto shop to cut correctly.

You can turn them on a lathe very nicely if you know what you are doing; chatter or a ruff finish won’t be an issue if the fixturing is correct. BDT has in the past cut rotors on our Lathe with a special support fixture to prevent the thin rotors from flexing. Top of the line Machine shops can figure it out.

A better option is to Grind ‘Thin’ type rotors, on a Blanchard Grinder, aka Rotary Disc Grinder, Surface Grinder or a Flywheel Automotive Grinder. At BDT we Grind them on our Surface Grinder and can hold straightness, flat and width within .0005”. You don't want the rotor to be very smooth; a nice 'cross-hatch' grinding pattern is Best.

As suggested; you can always purchase new Chinese Made rotors for a very low cost; almost not worth messing with the worn rotors unless you are building to like new OEM.

Carlos
 

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There are many rotors out there for $100 or less. With shipping cost and shop time I can't see pay that much to dress up an oem rotor. Several companies manufacture high quality aftermarket rotors.
Loren
 

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IMO you need to ask yourself what type of riding and what environment you ride in.

Notice on the Walmart Rotors some of the openings or holes are rather large, certainly larger holes than OEM. Honda purposely made the rotors with small holes.

Off road rotors that are smooth (no holes) or have very small holes (like the 250R OEM) are intended for all around general riding, in all types of terrain, rocks, pebbles, desert, woods, ect...

Rotors with larger holes are more prone to binding, jamming, or complete failure if used in terrain containing a lot of pebbles, rocks, or any type of foreign matter that can lodge in between the Rotor & Brake Housing/pads.

Totally opened or scalloped rotors try to get way from possible binding by having very large openings, assuming rocks are not going to be big enough to lodge in the rotor, however; if you pay attention you will note factory teams went with no holes, totally smooth or very small hole rotors in all desert racing.

Carlos
 

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nev new. grt info.


i have the best. bdt built engines.
bdt261 oem
bdt363 prox
bdt391 ceo
bdt431 puma

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Are there still new old stock OEM brake pads available for the R’s?
 

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so does bdt. oem pads


i have the best. bdt built engines.
bdt261 oem
bdt363 prox
bdt391 ceo
bdt431 puma

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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