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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got two sets of snap ring pliers, regular size and a larger pair that I used for the big axle snap ring. I have both straight and right angle ends for both sets (also 45s). None of them go deep enough at the correct angle to get in either the front or rear master cylinder rings. Anyone have any recommendations for a set?
 

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I can relate to your frustrations.

Here’s the pliers that I have: Channellock 927 8-Inch Snap Ring Plier - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TG80SY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MA67MZ5J2BZZ9E96KJTQ?psc=1

I can get these to work for the the master cylinders, but they’re not quite long enough either. I have to just insert the tips into the plier base, not even enough for the set screws to engage. Then try to hold the master cylinders or put them in a vise all while trying to balance the pliers to ensure the tips don’t fall out. It’s a total PIA.

That said, I’m following to hopefully hear what others have found to work better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My regular set is very similar to the link you posted but Craftsman brand. The Clymer manual shows a drawing of a dedicated right angle set. Also my snap rings are quite rusty so any loose iffyness from the tool will probably be met with an epic fail.
 

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I have a small pliers set from napa with interchangeable tips than some various sizes in straight & 90 in pittsburg brand that were my dad's. On the rear MC I'm currently rebuilding though the ring was basically rusted to the pushrod washer so the eye's broke out when I tried to remove it. After soaking a couple weeks with pen oil I cut the pushrod off for more working room than tapped the washer with a punch to break the snap ring loose & had to use pick's to dig the snap ring out. Hopefully your's isn't that bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I got to start on this. The Motion Pro snap ring pliers that are very similar to the link I posted came and fit both masters perfectly. Unfortunately they broke right away on the rear master. I fear that I'm not dealing with just plain old rust on the rear master -- rather I am dealing with galvanic corrosion where the steel snap ring has welded itself to the aluminum master cylinder over time. The part had soaked in PB blaster over a week. I scraped off more rust and applied more Blaster tonight after breaking the $30 tool. I was also able to get the regular snap ring pliers in there and immediately broke a tip in half (so not the tip). The regular snap ring pliers will not fit in the front; I need to use the special tool. The rear wasn't really that bad, so worst case scenario I just replace the back O-ring and put on the new boot from the rebuild kit or get a new 450R master for $135 or 250R one for $185.

But I can't mess with the front master until I get a new tool.
 

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Is there a lot of pitting in the aluminum around the snap ring groove? Can you post pics?... If it's not all pitted you should be able to get it apart using the method I described above & don't worry about destroying the oem pushrod because Suzuki part # 69670-00A00 is a direct replacement. I have one on a rear mc I rebuilt a few years ago for my R & recently purchased another one from a local Honda/Suzuki shop for around $25 for a current rebuild on another R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The pitting isn't bad from what I can see. Little to none. What about the washer though? It doesn't seem to be available separately.
 

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Your's sounds pretty much the same as the one I recently disassembled so if it's not pitted than it should be salvageable....The washer is part of the push-rod. There's a cosmetic difference with the suzuki push-rod but from the seal groove up to the ball end it's an exact match including the washer. Overall it's about 3/16" longer than the oem push-rod which can be cut off if needed, the one I used didn't need cutting but the rod almost touches the brake pedal. Hope you can get your's apart, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Big progress! Front master is done and the brakes bled. While I was waiting on the second pair of pliers I devised the "pick test". Soaked in more PB Blaster for a few days then used brake cleaner to get it clean enough to scrape rust off with the picks. I used two picks that came with a Jeg's screwdriver set: A 45 degree and a 90 degree. These picks are invaluable for several steps of master rebuilds. After a couple of soak 'n scrapes, I used the picks to start prying on the eyelets of the snap rings. After a little while they started to move. Once I got them to move a little I sprayed more Blaster into the parts of the grooves I couldn't reach before. Then another soak 'n scrape. By this time the pliers had gotten here. Both front and rear snap rings came off easily. I'm using anti-seize on the front snap ring and the entire cup and washer assembly on the rear. Rear piston needs a little more soaking before it will come out.

So if an MC fails the "pick test" it's going to try to break your pliers tips right away. You're going to have to try a soak 'n scrape before you can go any further.
 

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Here's the suzuki rear push-rod next to an oem push-rod & a pic of the snap ring pliars I use for the front & rear mc's:

I like to put a thin layer of hondabond in the seal groove in an attempt keep moisture out:

Just finished the rear caliper:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
The rear is all back together and bled! Now all I need to do is a test ride and maybe a little more bleeding/adjusting.

All the bores and pistons looked fine, bike probably has 200-300 hours so it's no surprise they weren't worn. They were just a little sleepy and the brakes still dragged ever so slightly after I rebuilt the calipers last winter.

I'm glad I went through this and got the tools since I might have to do the same thing to my '91 KX125 later this year when I do a mini-resto on it.
 
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