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if your looking for a longer lasting chain with less maintenance then yes, however it will add more drag and the possibility of rubbing on the case as the oring is a wider chain.
but ether way run a quality chain with a high tensile strength,

I do not run a oring,i use ERT2 and I maintain my chain before every ride and after every wash,
its up to you if you don't mind taking time to keep the chain lubed and check it more often for any issues, then you don't need o ring
stay away from the colored low strength chains
 

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I only run non oring chain. I refuse to buy oring chain. Oring chain is great if your just a trail rider, or ride in sand. The orings simply help keep the chain lubricated. If you lubricate often its a non issue. Oring chain does draw hp compared to non oring chain.
 

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I kind of find it hard to believe that a O-ring chain robs enough horsepower to make a difference. I understand its not quite as loose I guess for a lack of a better word. I cant imagine the wieght difference is really anything noticeable either. Are there any factual numbers to support the loss of HP or is everyone of the opinion that every little bit counts even if it is say a 1/4 HP?
 

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I kind of find it hard to believe that a O-ring chain robs enough horsepower to make a difference. I understand its not quite as loose I guess for a lack of a better word. I cant imagine the wieght difference is really anything noticeable either. Are there any factual numbers to support the loss of HP or is everyone of the opinion that every little bit counts even if it is say a 1/4 HP?
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...HChIFA&usg=AFQjCNHsFyM7huYGJwq5tWWs8gFWx0rUfQ

most vintage bikes and quads were designed to run non oring chains,
the spacing between the sprocket and cases isn't designed for the wider oring , causing the chain to rub on the case lowering the power and value of the quad by damaging the cases.

I admit I don't run the non for the little power increase, I run it for the clearance issue, my cases are too costly to risk using anything cheap or wide,
I change my chain often

I let it do the initial stretch then adjust it, any future adjustment tells me its time for a new chain

I also don't use a master link, well over 75% of chain failure is at the master link
 

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This is really only comparing a 530 to a lighter 520 conversion. Although they have terminology in there that says a non-oring chain is more efficient than an O-ring chain. Theyre claiming aprox. 1.5 HP increase on a bike that is twice our horsepower so we can say with some inaccuracy that at most we would gain 3/4 HP. Im not sure if this HP or less warrants losing longevity and durability for such a small increase. I guess any type of racing every little bit does count. But for general riding, duning ect. an O-ring chain IMO is the better buy.
 

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its defiantly a choice thing..my choice is as I said for clearance not power

but there are MUST DO's for any chain...
you must get a quality chain that is the right tensile strength
you must keep it adjusted properly
if using an o-ring you must use a o-ring master with the backing plate not squeezed into the link but released back into the clip
you must have the clip opening facing back wards
you must have a straight clip don't bend one side removing or installing
you must keep it clean and lubricated
you must replace when needed
on a non master link you must use a rivet tool not just a punch
you must keep an eye on the sprockets and links for any wear,

and lastly and most important you must have a chain to win QOTM on the other forum:p
 

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and lastly and most important you must have a chain to win QOTM on the other forum:p
Oh damn, that was a punch in the gut, LMAO.

Back when I raced my 1986 ATC250R, a standard 520 chain was all we ever used. In 3 years I went through 3 chains, and that was because I CHOSE to buy a new chain at the beginning of each season. If you stick with quality chains such as DID, I'm sure they will last for some time. So the question is, will a properly cleaned and oiled o-ring chain last 3 times longer than a properly cleaned and oiled standard chain from the same company? I highly doubt it, but it's going to cost you 2 to 3 times as much. That's a fact, not an opinion.
 

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It is a matter of what one wants to run and if you are willing to loose a bit of power for an oring chain that may last a bit longer. The HP loss is real, the amount of loss is dependent on the engine displacement as noted. We prefer and recommend non-oringed chains of top quality, in this area I would not cut corners, specially on BB high HP & TrQ engines.

Carlos
 
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