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anyone know a good way to get rust off an expansion pipe and to shine it up to make it look new?
I have a gold series fmf expansion pipe and silencer the expansion pipe a little rust on it and needs shined up. I was thinking maybe a SOS pad for the rust and maybe just buff it to get a good shine. Any ideas guys?
 

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I used WD40 and some scotchbrite pads. Then some mothers buffing compound on mine
 

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anyone know a good way to get rust off an expansion pipe and to shine it up to make it look new?
I have a gold series fmf expansion pipe and silencer the expansion pipe a little rust on it and needs shined up. I was thinking maybe a SOS pad for the rust and maybe just buff it to get a good shine. Any ideas guys?
Being FMF are Nickel plated, and rust comes through from under the plating, you can use the Scotch pads and WD-40 or Kerosene to clean as best as possible, however; the rust will return since it's trapped below the plating and getting the pipe to "look new" is impossible except for short periods of time.

Carlos
 

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Being FMF are Nickel plated, and rust comes through from under the plating, you can use the Scotch pads and WD-40 or Kerosene to clean as best as possible, however; the rust will return since it's trapped below the plating and getting the pipe to "look new" is impossible except for short periods of time.

Carlos
That's why after washing the machine you coat it with some WD40. Simple as that.....
 
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Yeah I'm sure a plating shop will definitely tell me that I need to have them strip my exhaust pipe and have them re-plate it. Well in the real world my pipes clean up nice with WD40 and stay nice with WD40. You better tell the world that rust stoppers/rust preventers do not work because Carlos says so! Way to turn another thread into an argument. Way to turn another thread into "Carlos knows". No wonder you have a 12 week waiting period and can't get your customers parts/engines/projects done. You know if you weren't playing keyboard commando you could get things done.... Seeing as you single handedly do 100% of everything....
 

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When it comes to rust prevention coating, nothing beats WD-40. It keeps the metal surfaces dry which is the key to preventing rust on your vehicles. It has all the qualities you need in a rust prevention spray and will keep your vehicle good for long.
 
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Rust needs moisture correct?
Well wouldn't a penetrating oil soak into the rust and stop water from feeding the rust?
Wouldn't it also prevent oxygen from getting to the rust?
 

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You need to do your due diligence on Rust, how it forms, lives, and why, specially under surfaces once plated. Do you even know why Rust deleopes under a plated surface that is suppose to be fully sealed?...NO you don't & you're missing it totally...don't just read the IFU on WD-40

Carlos
 

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been riding for years. i have seen many a rusted crusty bike atv 3 wheeler. i have for years been doing this. after i ride i power wash my bike soap and rinse. give it a quick air hose blow down. i buy wd 40 by the gallon and a small garden pump sprayer. i them spray every metal component of my bike frame rims pipe chain engine radiator a arms swing arm i miss nothing. i spray tire shine on the plastics and tires and put it away. i repeat every time and this keeps rust issues down. my banshee pipes had some rust on them when i got them 15 years ago. and constantly i continue to apply this method and the rust is NOT spreading due to a water seperator WD 40. so let it be known and be clear rust can be contained to its area and as long as the rust is coated with a moisture seperator what ever the product is it will not spread PERIOD.
 

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Ok genius, I'll take your bait... If rust requires iron, water, and oxygen to form, how can a completely plated pipe rust? Well it would have to have a defective coating. That would be the only way. If water and oxygen can't get to the iron, how can rust form...... It can't
WD40, Kroil, and LPS 2 are rust inhibitors and can be used to treat your 250R pipe.
Oh wait! Carlos says they don't do anything! Oh noooooooo... What should we all do Carlos.
 

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WOW,

some folks on here are consistently looking for a fight. The crazy thing is Carlos basically said the same thing, only adding that it will likely come back, which is true. He did not say you couldn’t repeat the process. Neither did he comment about if you slather WD 40 on after every ride. Sure, the more frequently you use WD 40, the better the anti-corrosive effect it will have, but it’s foolish to argue it’s a perfect fix.

You act as if Carlos said the only solution is to drop 850 bucks on one of his custom pipes, which he did not do, and in fact I routinely see him recommending other less expensive pipes to those on a budget.

It’s pretty clear that some of you have a long history with Carlos, and I can’t comment on that, but I can say as a new poster, some of you look like fools when you jump Carlos’ $&[email protected] over something so trivial.

Because I have read some of the history, and I know Carlos has been accused of creating accounts, I will affirm that is not the case, and if you want me to prove it feel free to PM me and I will talk to you personally until you are convinced.

All I see is Carlos spending a lot of time answering a lot of questions to which I am grateful.

I’d be equally grateful if other keenly knowledgeable builders posted, even if their opinions conflict.

In the words of Elwood P Dowd

“an element of conflict in any discussion's a very good thing. It means everybody is taking part and nobody is left out.”
 

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WOW,

some folks on here are consistently looking for a fight. The crazy thing is Carlos basically said the same thing, only adding that it will likely come back, which is true. He did not say you couldn’t repeat the process. Neither did he comment about if you slather WD 40 on after every ride. Sure, the more frequently you use WD 40, the better the anti-corrosive effect it will have, but it’s foolish to argue it’s a perfect fix.

You act as if Carlos said the only solution is to drop 850 bucks on one of his custom pipes, which he did not do, and in fact I routinely see him recommending other less expensive pipes to those on a budget.

It’s pretty clear that some of you have a long history with Carlos, and I can’t comment on that, but I can say as a new poster, some of you look like fools when you jump Carlos’ $&[email protected] over something so trivial.

Because I have read some of the history, and I know Carlos has been accused of creating accounts, I will affirm that is not the case, and if you want me to prove it feel free to PM me and I will talk to you personally until you are convinced.

All I see is Carlos spending a lot of time answering a lot of questions to which I am grateful.

I’d be equally grateful if other keenly knowledgeable builders posted, even if their opinions conflict.

In the words of Elwood P Dowd

“an element of conflict in any discussion's a very good thing. It means everybody is taking part and nobody is left out.”
i felt the same way when i first joined. stick around it gets better. you don't know the whole history.i only posted what i do to help prevent rust from contuining to destroy my bikes.
 

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WOW,

some folks on here are consistently looking for a fight. The crazy thing is Carlos basically said the same thing, only adding that it will likely come back, which is true. He did not say you couldn’t repeat the process. Neither did he comment about if you slather WD 40 on after every ride. Sure, the more frequently you use WD 40, the better the anti-corrosive effect it will have, but it’s foolish to argue it’s a perfect fix.

You act as if Carlos said the only solution is to drop 850 bucks on one of his custom pipes, which he did not do, and in fact I routinely see him recommending other less expensive pipes to those on a budget.

It’s pretty clear that some of you have a long history with Carlos, and I can’t comment on that, but I can say as a new poster, some of you look like fools when you jump Carlos’ $&[email protected] over something so trivial.

Because I have read some of the history, and I know Carlos has been accused of creating accounts, I will affirm that is not the case, and if you want me to prove it feel free to PM me and I will talk to you personally until you are convinced.

All I see is Carlos spending a lot of time answering a lot of questions to which I am grateful.

I’d be equally grateful if other keenly knowledgeable builders posted, even if their opinions conflict.

In the words of Elwood P Dowd

“an element of conflict in any discussion's a very good thing. It means everybody is taking part and nobody is left out.”
👆👆yea + 1 to that couldn’t have said it better.
 

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i felt the same way when i first joined. stick around it gets better. you don't know the whole history.i only posted what i do to help prevent rust from contuining to destroy my bikes.
as you should. I think using WD-40 sounds like a great idea.
 

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Being FMF are Nickel plated, and rust comes through from under the plating, you can use the Scotch pads and WD-40 or Kerosene to clean as best as possible, however; the rust will return since it's trapped below the plating and getting the pipe to "look new" is impossible except for short periods of time.

Carlos
This is what happened to mine from years of storage. I never got a chance to wipe it down with WD-40 every once in a while since I didn't know you needed to.
 

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The Best we have found to use after riding, racing, ect...is Olive Oil (OO). After cleaning the Pipe well, dry and take a rag saturated with OO and wipe-coat pipe completely down. While OO also evaporates like WD-40, it does at a much slower rate, and seem to always keep a coat on the metal even after extended periods of time.

It certainly is more messy than WD-40, and not as convinient, however; it functions much better and smells like Italian cooking when you run it.

Carlos
 
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