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Discussion Starter #1
Yeah yea ya. This has been covered before I know. Jus wondering how you like to run your bike... some like lean and crispy others luggy and torquey. Not starting a pissing match here boys. Just want to know what works for different applications. I find my R likes it fat on top cause we run mostly 6th gear. Where does your run it’s best? And how long will you stay WOT. I just find myself always looking for more or another gear lol. I’m running 14 38 and want more top end.
 

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run 14-36. or 15-38-39. fat-fat.


i have the best. bdt built engines.
bdt261 oem
bdt363 prox
bdt391 ceo
bdt431 puma

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Discussion Starter #4
How long do you break in. I do 3 or 4, 15 min heat cycles then ride easy one tank. Then usually just rip it like normal. 😏
 

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So I always run just a touch rich on the main on all my R's. I like to keep it crisp from idle to 3/4 throttle then a wfo I like it to just break up a little. Using this method I have never burned a piston at wfo. The only time I have had a 250R burn a piston was from an undiagnosed air leak which was entirely my fault for skipping a leak down test.
As far as break in procedure, I follow the Duncan racing procedure. I believe (have to check) that you do 4-6 heat cycles (cylinder is at operating temperature then let cool) before you ride at all. Then do a 10-15 minute easy ride a few times. Then ride easy for a tank. Then ride it like it's meant to be ridden. I'll search through my saved files on my phone and post the procedure.
Loren
 

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Yeah yea ya. This has been covered before I know. Jus wondering how you like to run your bike... some like lean and crispy others luggy and torquey. Not starting a pissing match here boys. Just want to know what works for different applications. I find my R likes it fat on top cause we run mostly 6th gear. Where does your run it’s best? And how long will you stay WOT. I just find myself always looking for more or another gear lol. I’m running 14 38 and want more top end.
Run as "Fat" as you can still produce the power you need, and not foul a plug. You will see that once you jet properly, that’s is ‘spot on’, you can increase the main by 1-2 sizes, and raise the needle one position, I would leave the Pilot & AS alone is the engine is responding crisply.

You will note if you follow the statement I posted above; Power will be just about the same as if you ran ‘spot on’ jetting.

BDT engine customers running 3-hour desert races, are WOT in 6th gear for 15-20-minute stretches, if jet correctly not an issue at all.

If your engine can pull more gear, the top end will increase noticeably. If running a 14T x 38…try 14T x 35 or go 15T x 38/39.

Breaking in engines should be based on what the builder suggested; not all builds or builders setup engines the same, type of piston (cast or forged), piston clearances, ring gap, porting, ect…all dictate different breaking procedures. What works for Duncan, may not work for builder ‘A’ or ‘B’…best to consult your builder, and follow his/her advice.

Carlos
 
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