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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i was cruising down the tracks heading for home and it started to run out of gas (i knew it was getting low). I was in Th gear cruising out of power band and it stalled this being my first two stroke i didn't think to pull in my clutch, i let it roll to a stop in gear :blink: . Anyways I'm about positive i fried the rings. Is there anyway i can test this before pulling the top end off? I don't even know what bore the motor is on. i know its been apart due to the fact there is a spacer plate. so i guess i mine as well find out now.

I am absolutely in Love with this quad tho. It is soooo much more nimble then my old 400 or 300'S. The only thing i can complain about is were the power band is, but i can change that with a pipe. I'm thinking an LRD or ESR trx6. I'm definitely going to buy a desert tank, The thing is a gas hog!

Thanks again in advance!
 

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do you know what the compression was before? if so, you could compare the reading you get now to what it was before. although its been my experience that running out of fuel shouldnt hurt things but, it's always possible.
 

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or could have leaned out if running it hard with little fuel/gas..I once burned a hole in a piston running a motor WOT ....it was on reserve & ran it dry ...then it just died
 

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I aint even seen a pic of the piston yet, but I can bet you theres some black seize scars around the exhaust side & probably some pecking marks on the crown top from deto.

Now what you think was happening as that carb was running out of gas ??, lower that gas level got in the carb bowl, less fuel/oil the engine was getting & hotter that piston was running untill it couldnt stand anymore heat & seized up.
Ol 2 stroke aint gona run off air, got to have some gas & oil mixed with it & the right amount to boot.

HEY BILL !, got a feller here needs a piston kit & some gaskets.
Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well it lost all compression, I can move the kicker with my hand. i was running a 25:1 mix with 93 using sthil chainsaw oil. :rolleyes: I figured it was better then walmart oil when i mixed up fresh gas for it. what do you think the damage is fresh hone and new rings? were is a good place to order a new set of rings?

Oh one more question: What does RRP stand for? its engraved on the side of the jug.
 

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now .. this the 1 bought from pappy correct ? :huh:

http://www.r-central.net/trx250rforums/ind...p?showtopic=446

brings back memories of him trying to figure out to jet a quad .. :unsure:
with what happened & your description ..my experience .. neils imput etc etc .. I got money the piston has a hole or is burnt(seized) ...could even be from the combo of junk 2 stroke oil & not getting gas ...ran hot & lean enough to burn the piston ..

anyways tear it down & move on the finding the real damage

just a guess ...

first you will need $'s
2 needs at least hone maybe a bore job ,..make sure its done by some one who understands the need for port radius's to be done correctly or may hang a ring next time :rolleyes:
3 needs complete new piston kit & a qualified person for fitment , & a new small bearing too !
4 top end gasket kit
5 someone who can put it together & break it in correctly

hint ...got a manual ??


OH & RRP is just initials of a shop ( forget the real name) here in Pa. that did or does motor & port work ...I had a 87 R with a cylinder w/RRP on it at 1 time ..wasnt anything real special tho
 

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i spose in the right conditions a piston fry will happen as mentioned but, in all my day. i personally have never had it happen. im with dave. i think ya had other ingredients in the mix and based on what you described, under normal situation shouldnt have contributed to a total loss of compression.

you's got some reading to do. :lol: not only here on the forum but in the manual aswell.

keep us posted with pics and such on this. B)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the jetting was fine had a nice tan color to the plug. the very tip oh it has a white glaze Probably from leaning out when it ran out of fuel. Ive read the .pdf manual. I'm going to tear into it when i get some more wood hauled in my garage. the compression test was at 182psi when i got it.

now when i got to put it back together do i need two base gaskets for the spacer plate? can i do the top-end in frame like a 300ex? Ive been working on 4 strokes since i did a top end when i was twelve, so this two stroke is definitely new to me. i have been reading up on rebuild procedures, so i understand the importance of the ports needing chamfered.

What is the small bearing? is that on the crank?

I'm gonna tear the top end off and dig out the Ole' micrometer tomorrow. ill get some pics and let you guys decide if i need bore job or just a hone.
 

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your on the right track and have the right attitude to addressing the problem. refferr to the manual on some of the questions you just ask. i/e chapter 5-6 shows how to check the cylinder to piston limits(a set of t-handle gages can be used instead of those in the manual) ect ect. you can accomplish the task with the engine in its cradle but is soooo much easier when its on the bench. the small bearing is the wrist pin bearing and should be replaced.

this is a great oppertune for you to check the rest of the engine out while you have it on the "cutting" table i call it lol carefully follow the manual and check everything out as illustrated. :)
 

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clymer :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Haynes no good? my buddy is picking me up a OEM shop Manuel from work tomorrow. he works at a dealer as a tech.

well i got my wood stove cranking out heat again today so i pulled the top end off. C-Leigh Racing hit the nail right on the head! the same buddy thats a tech says the cylinder doesn't look bad but i let him take it to check all the measurements out and go from there. the piston is a 66.50 so is that the first over bore for the cylinder? i also gave him money to pick me up some klotz super techniplate and Cr gear oil. the dealership is getting ready to move so there getting ready to sell off a bunch of NOS parts he is going to dig out all the old R parts for me :D !

i have the piston sitting in front of me now and the part number on the top is 526m06650, thats a wiseco isn't it? i gotta get pics of the carb to have you guys identify it for me. my camera need batteries tho i will get them tomorrow. also one more thing should the dome in a cool head spin freely i have it off and cant get the spark plug out because of that.
 

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OH & RRP is just initials of a shop ( forget the real name) here in Pa. that did or does motor & port work ...I had a 87 R with a cylinder w/RRP on it at 1 time ..wasnt anything real special tho
[/quote]


RRP is ribossone(something sounding similar) racing performance, they do some shotty work. I seen 2 top ends where they messed up the cylinder-piston clearance bad and once where they forgot to put in piston wrist pin clip in. They are located pretty close to me.
 

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i see ct has them for 8.95 and magic has them for 9.95. i did some searching. wha pistons are reccomended? wiseco, pro-x, wsm?
I would run a Wiseco, but thats just me. WSM are junk and Pro-X aren't much better, IMO. I always say if you are going to do it, do it right the first time. I only run Wiseco's in my race motors.
 

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OH & RRP is just initials of a shop ( forget the real name) here in Pa. that did or does motor & port work ...I had a 87 R with a cylinder w/RRP on it at 1 time ..wasnt anything real special tho



RRP is ribossone(something sounding similar) racing performance, they do some shotty work. I seen 2 top ends where they messed up the cylinder-piston clearance bad and once where they forgot to put in piston wrist pin clip in. They are located pretty close to me.
yea i think its called rossinni racing products and yea they do shoddy work my lt250r rear shock was re-done by them and it sux btw they're in stewartsville nj
 

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hmmm i guess they are not in Pa .. after all .. lol oh well sounds like they suck ..


might wanna send the cylinder to neil for some real work on it ;)
 
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