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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen a lot of videos of guys repairing/renewing their plastics in several ways. Seems like wet sanding and buffing is the way to go. And a heat gun will take out those ugly white stress marks. My question is, will either method take care of the difference in color after you take off a sticker that's been on there for 15 to 25 years. I'm not talking about glue residue. I think it has something to do with not being in the sun for so long when the rest has. It's like when you take a painting off the wall that's been there forever. You can see the outline of the frame. I haven't seen any posts or videos addressing this issue. I'm sure both methods will reduce the effect, but can you get rid of it completely? I ask because I'm considering taking off some decals on my blue fullbore plastics that are about 15 years old.
 

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There are several methods and several plastic compound, maybe not every method are as good as they are for a platic compound that they would be for another. When I did my 86 oem fenders, the extra blue oem hood I have was harder to work than the white rear and front fenders, sandpaper wasn't working as good even by starting to going smaller. I haven't finished yet my oem blue hood, all I have been able to do is to get it worse than before to restore it, plastic was looking to be too hard. When you are talking about differences in color, you mean that the area who was under the decals is looking to be new with shiny looking finish compared to the places who were not under decals looking to really have the 15 years old wear mark on it? Will you attempt to restore the places who were not covered by decals only or you are projecting to do every area on the plastics? I believe that if you are using the same process on every area of the plastics it will bring the same finish everywhere at the end by removing the beated superficial plastic. I also believe that it would be really hard to bring the area not under decals at the same finish than those who are under by not restoring every area with the same process.

Max.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I plan on doing the same process on the whole piece. I'm just worried it will still stand out, and I can't get the same graphics kit to put back on because it's discontinued. It doesn't take up the majority of the surface like most do. And I really just want clean, new looking plastics with no decals. I'll probably just go ahead and do it. If it doesn't work I'll put a new graphics kit on them and sell them, and use that money toward a newish fullbore set. These just have sentimental value to me. Had them for close to 15 years...
 

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Sentimental value + fullbore plastics seems to be hard to fin these days at a decent price.
I used to remove old superficial plastic with a razor blade, even if my oem plastics are more flexible, this trick saved me a lot of time, after that 400 sandpaper to 1200 and up, compound to end. I still need to find a good wax to get on them, they look clean but they are dull and dirt stick on them, I needed to clean them with white vinegar and soap plus wd-40 and steel wool as dirt wasn't removable without this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, that sounds good to me. But, my main question still remains. I guess what I'm asking is: when the sun hits the plastic for a long time, does it only affect the surface or top few mils, or does it affect the plastic more drastically. Like, halfway through or all the way through? To the point where scraping and refinishing the surface will not totally remove the discoloration. It's hard to explain but I think that's the best I can do.
 

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I think I will leave other answer for your main question as I would not like to invent something that I am not proud about. I think you will be fine by removing the few mills cause mine used to be under the sun too from 1986 to today, removing the few mills showed the original nice white for mines, but it is only what I am thinking so it may be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, I think I'm just over thinking and worrying for nothing. I'm sure it will be fine. I think Ill refinish them this weekend. Probably will post before and after pics along with my process on the project section and on this thread. Thanks everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Look up on youtube "Polaris ranger 500 series 10 buffing the plastic" at the end, the Polaris logo is still visible from where he took the decal off. That's my main concern... And that's not nearly as old...
 

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I would remove the logo with a heat gun and finger instead of sanding it, if there is some glue still on it, maybe some Goo Gone would do the job. He seems to use a king of cleaner and a soft polishing wheel, if you go with sandpaper and razor blade I think you will go deeper and avoid still see where the logo was.
 

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Lol buy some wipe new its your for 19.99 but wait order now and we will send u a secound one absolutely free.
 

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Lol buy some wipe new its your for 19.99 but wait order now and we will send u a secound one absolutely free.
The stuff works thou,used it on my 400ex, brought the plastics back to new look, the stuff really stinks thou and has to be applied perfect to make a clean look
 

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I found a link on three wheeler world 2 or so years ago on how to restore r plastics and it worked like a charm only thing I did different was I did it in my bathtub with constant warm water that's the key keeping it wet imop. I took a 10$ ebay gas tank that was faded white something fierce it should have been put in the trash. but after 4 hours it looked like it was fresh off the showroom floor. my buddys wife seen it before I polished it and said you paid for that lol . it took a lil longer than I wanted but there was a couple scratches that were kinda deep and I figured I got the time keep on sanding.you will have to put some polish on it every once and a while too keep the shine. I thought i saved the link but i didn't. good luck
 
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