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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of building an LSR no-link framed R with an LSR DC-2 no-link swingarm. Am I going to have to make any more modifications to make this setup work? Is there anything I should be aware of before I start switching over to the LSR no-link frame?

More specifically, I'd like to know if my intake, carb, and stock air box are going to work. I'm currently running a stock cylinder spacer plate motor with a RAD valve, 38 A/S carb, stock air box to carb boot, and a stock air box.

The thing is, I'm not going to be able to start working on this project until the end of June, but I'd like to be able to come home and swap everything over to this new frame and not run into any problems, and also have all of the parts needed.

Any insight here would be appreciated.
 

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airbox can be a challenge. LSR made a special airbox that fit, but it had a terrible filtration design, and sell for $200-300 on ebay. I used a modified stock aibox with a LT500 boot for awhile, until i destroyed the stock box. I then made a aluminum box that worked pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Interesting... I'll have to figure something out then. What was all wrong with the LSR box?
 

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You could always call Mike at HRE to build you a custom no-link aluminum airbox. HREatv.com
But please wait a couple weeks so he doesn't get any other projects on the go as I need him to finish my frame.

I'm sure you could call LSR as well for ideas or an airbox. I know they used to make no-link airboxes.
 

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the LSR airbox had a cylindrical K&N that filter from the inside out. The the firstair passed through the center of the filer, then went into the airbox. So the entire inside of the box had to be clean. Plus you have to use a K&N filter, which Im not a fan of.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the LSR airbox had a cylindrical K&N that filter from the inside out. The the firstair passed through the center of the filer, then went into the airbox. So the entire inside of the box had to be clean. Plus you have to use a K&N filter, which Im not a fan of.
PM sent Rebel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After searching everywhere, I've finally located some place that actually has made a no-link air box before and knows what they're doing, www.protectfabrications.com. The only thing is, they want a pretty penny for it, $275. Mike over at HRE can build one, but he's never really done one before, and his would be anywhere from $125-200 depending on the amount of time he has to put into it. Now I'm trying to decide whether or not to spend the extra $$ and get it done right (hopefully), or to give HRE a chance and see what they can come up with. What do you guys think?

Does this type of filter/intake setup distort air flow, etc enough to make a difference?

Who knew running a no-link rear end would be so damn expensive... :blink: All I've got to say is it better be worth it.

Here are some pics of the ProTect setup. It utilizes the factory air box to carb boot and all factory mounting points. It also comes with an extension/clamp setup for the gap in between the carb and the air box boot. Perhaps this could be avoided if a LT boot was used?





 

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if you want cheap there is another solution. You can use the stock airbox, with some work. glue a piece of 4" PVC over the flange for the airboot. this is to give the added length needed and make the flange the right OD for the LT boot. 4" pvc slips on the stock flange snugly and the LT boot slides over it snug. Then you have to cut the top of the box off, along where the seem is.
 

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I do not have a no link but I know that I do have an aluminum adapter that makes the stock airbox into a 4" inlet maybe you can find one of those. If I dig it out of one of the boxes in my garage I'll take a pic of it not sure who makes them but it is a quality part.
 

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I've seen a setup advertised on ebay that looks like an LT500 or 400ex boot that includes a billet adapter for the 250R airbox. I think you would still have to move the airbox further back though.
 

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I have a "no-link" setup. EVERYONE is right when they say that LSR airbox is crap.

I remember them selling those "sandyourmotorinnotime" things for 400.00!!!

I tried everything to make it work, FAILED.

Now I need to figure out what to do also. It's been a long 4 years since I started
rebuilding my "R". Hehe

Looking at the pics above I noticed that my subframe has had the little tab on the
back for the airbox to bolt to removed. By the previous owner, I guess.

Oh well, I'm tired of my expensive to fix blown up four poke right now. I'll figure
something out with a stock airbox I bought long ago.
 

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I have a no-link setup on my JP Outlaw 250R. The no-link compatible aluminum airbox has an LSR sticker on the side, but it doesn't use the backwards K&N filter mentioned earlier in this thread.

I bought the R with a old, crumbling foam filter on it (the quad had been in storage for a decade) and I replaced it with a No-Toil filter for a stock 250R airbox. The No-Toil filter fit the no-link airbox fine. The stock snorkel came up a couple of inches short, so there is a section of radiator hose connecting the stock snorkel to the carb. I'm starting to wonder what brand of airbox I have...or did LSR make more than one design?

If you need any pics or measurements of my setup, let me know.
 

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ive got a jp outlaw no-link as well and i use the stock air box moved back a bit and i made a custom intake pipe out of intercooler couplings and some stainless pipe
 
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