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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
I still need to remove my cylinder, install a .015 base gasket and a 3 piece head gasket. It should put my squish around .080 and an UCCR at around 13.5-13.9 I will probably run 50/50 pump/110. To improve my squish and run a cr head gasket I need have about 5cc removed from head to run about .040-.050 squish piston will be about .009 in the hole. This is not my final motor in this. Still waiting on my 265 cc stroker from BDT
 

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What about lightly heating up the plastic and trying to work it down or in a bit more. Other than that, I dont have experince with fullbore's so maybe just notch it, but not sure how you feel about cutting into the rears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
On another note it looks like I fixed my other motor. Was leaking here causing a leak down test to fail immediately and leak air out as fast as I could put it in right through the trans.
Old crappy repair somebody did cases pretty much would not seal in this area they took to much off the surface near weld causing a .020 gap
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so I had a local welder build it back up then I took a small die grinder to get most of the weld down then carefully used a file to get it closer. I stoped by a granite store and they gave me a big scrap slab so I used that and 400 grit paper to resurface both sides of the cases, where the cylinder bolts, the cylinder surface and the head. I’m glad I did because nothing was flat.
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Just got my .015 base gasket on and made the inner part of the 3 pice head gasket .020 bigger with my dremel to accommodate my 67.50 mm bore. Just did a leak down and have zero leaks. Final UCCR is about 13.7
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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
What about lightly heating up the plastic and trying to work it down or in a bit more. Other than that, I dont have experince with fullbore's so maybe just notch it, but not sure how you feel about cutting into the rears.
See that’s what I was thinking but makes me nervous doing that because when I push on the plastic in that area the whole rear fender goes down with it. I’m scared to heat it and discolor the plastics. I might just cut it out and play it safe but I need to get out there again and play with it more
 

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Heating won't discolor it since its brand new. If it was old & faded than it would probably change with heat. I've successfully tweaked oem & maier front & rear fenders, hoods & even straightened bulged out rear MC resi's using a heat gun. Just take your time, wear gloves, heat the plastic slowly, check it often & keep the heat gun constantly moving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Heating won't discolor it since its brand new. If it was old & faded than it would probably change with heat. I've successfully tweaked oem & maier front & rear fenders, hoods & even straightened bulged out rear MC resi's using a heat gun. Just take your time, wear gloves, heat the plastic slowly, check it often & keep the heat gun constantly moving.
I might give it a try. I just remembered I have old plastics I can test it on
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Well I installed the DRW ignition and floated the ground. The wiring off the stator needed some finagling to make everything fit correct. I used one of the pick up bolts to install an electrical eyelet so I can bend it over to secure the wires better. I must of done something right because I now have spark.
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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Got my entire exhaust on spent over 3 hrs trying to get the head pipe to fit right/straight along with exhaust and muffler. Had to heat the exahust in places and bend it to get it to clear frame at the A arms, coolent hose to head and rear of the frame by the brake reservoir then chop off a 1/2 of tube to get the muffler on correct and bolted.
I also got my 38mm A/S short body carb, new intake to fit carb and a throttle cable. I got the throttle cable hooked up and the throttle is super stiff. Doesn’t appear to be an issue with carb or thumb throttle feels more like when there’s even slight tension on the cable it doesent glide freely inside causing it to feel stiff. cabble is a motion pro if anyone had issues with this cable please let me know.
tomorrow I’m going to attempt to start it after I do the 89 clutch mod and a few other things.
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It’s really coming together! And you’re getting so close😊

The exhaust fitment can be a pain, but usually not that bad. Using the exhaust hangers in different orientations with the addition of spacers/washers as needed usually does the trick. It’s common for those aftermarket coolant hoses to be too long, especially the one from the case to the cylinder. You may have to cut some off from either or both ends of the hose to get it so it doesn’t touch the pipe.

I’ve never had any issues with the Motion Pro cables. Maybe try lubing it?

Just curious, any word from Motowoz on your shocks? My rear is supposedly going to ship today… 5 months later.
 
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