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So this is all new just came out last week. For what I want I don’t want the smaller flywheel I’d rather have the better low rpm luggable engine and slightly less of a hit for the loose hard pack desert and Rocky trails but I can see where other ppl might want less flywheel weight to. Also the fact that I will be running lights, battery and possibly a small fan. I will be doing an update on what I think of it here very soon as long as I get my other motor running perfect so it will be a fair comparison to OEM.
I think there was a Zeel for the 250R before but it wasn't as advanced. Not trying to make a pun either ;)
 

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I ordered my Zeel this week; should be here by the weekend.

Just curious, did it come with additional instructions on how to install? Specially, install instructions for Map 1 vs Map 2?
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
I ordered my Zeel this week; should be here by the weekend.

Just curious, did it come with additional instructions on how to install? Specially, install instructions for Map 1 vs Map 2?
No that’s one complaint I have. I was reading tho you plug and play like you would with stock ignition and that’s the factory map then something about disconnecting a wire for map 2 but I’m not sure. Also wth are the GPO wires for?? I was going to install mine today but when I was installing new reeds and my new exhaust o rings I decided to do a leak down and my right case seal was leaking a lot of air. (No wonder I was having trouble jetting) so I will probably be delayed a week on testing
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Ims tank does not touch the rubber frame bumpers. Even if I modified it to sit lower the rear of tank will hit frame before rubber bumpers. I will probably be making new rear tank mounts so it sits 1/8” higher in rear to prevent any future contact with the frame in the rear.
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No that’s one complaint I have. I was reading tho you plug and play like you would with stock ignition and that’s the factory map then something about disconnecting a wire for map 2 but I’m not sure. Also wth are the GPO wires for??
I asked Weston on his FB post. He said that the Zeel’s default is Map 1 (stock). To get to Map 2 (01 CR250) you need to run a switch by wiring the green stripe wire to the ground.

I have no idea about the GPO wires…

Mine should be here tomorrow, so I hope to have a better understanding once I have it in my hands.

That’s a bummer on the air leak. It’s good that you caught now, though.
 

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That bolt tab is to mount the snorkel system. Most plug the snorkel inlet hole on the airbox and ditch the snorkel all together.
This is true but honestly I've never understood the reason for ditching the snorkel & plugging the hole. By doing that your reducing the amount of incoming air even when you have a cut lid or no lid. I ride in the sand mostly & run an oem airbox with a lid that has almost the whole top cut out & a piece of spandex type material that i put over the cover & tuck the extra material into the airbox. For the snorkel I cut a piece of material I got from a fabric store thats what k&n pre-filters are made from & I put a piece of that in the joint where the snorkel tubes fit together than use the rubber band to keep it secure. I used to also run a pre-filter but since it never got dirty I stopped using it. I never find sand in the airbox using this method & I get plenty of air to feed my oem cylinders..... I have one extra snorkel if you need one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
This is true but honestly I've never understood the reason for ditching the snorkel & plugging the hole. By doing that your reducing the amount of incoming air even when you have a cut lid or no lid. I ride in the sand mostly & run an oem airbox with a lid that has almost the whole top cut out & a piece of spandex type material that i put over the cover & tuck the extra material into the airbox. For the snorkel I cut a piece of material I got from a fabric store thats what k&n pre-filters are made from & I put a piece of that in the joint where the snorkel tubes fit together than use the rubber band to keep it secure. I used to also run a pre-filter but since it never got dirty I stopped using it. I never find sand in the airbox using this method & I get plenty of air to feed my oem cylinders..... I have one extra snorkel if you need one.
Cool I’ll keep that in mind thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Well it might be a few weeks before I can test out the new ignition. When I did a leak down test on my spare motor it wouldn’t hold at all leaked all out of the crankcase breather so I figured it needed new crank seals. I ordered the seals and took clutch side off I noticed metal particles in trans. I decided to just pull and take apart the motor after talking to BDT. When cases were split I seen a case repair around the counter shaft area so I put a straight edge near the repair and found a .015-.020 gap. Also It chewed up 3rd gear. I think somebody ran it this way, ran trans fluid very low and took out 3rd along with Center fork being chewed up and bent. That must of been my issue when trying to tune it (excessive smoke)
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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Been busy lately but I have my +2+1 steering stem installed, new 88 foam and cover from high flight, factory 43 front bumper and my bars along with my asv levers that need to be fitted. Still waiting on shocks and motor. Anybody know what brake reservoir hose I can use?
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Looks good. As for as the hose goes, I cleaned my original one up really good and made sure it wasn’t cracking or anything. I looked and didn’t really find too much to replace it with, but maybe someone else could let you know
 

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Yes, looking good!

I cleaned and reused my OEM hose, too. If you need one, there are some on eBay.


Alternatively, there are fancy billet reservoirs that replace the hose and plastic reservoir altogether if that’s something you’re into.


I’d imagine if you found the correct ID braided hose it would work just fine too, but it wouldn't have the the factory bend/shape.
 
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