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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
Finally took it out to the CA desert for a day trip rode it a hard 40 miles. Things I need to address is suspension, after backing off my rear shock 3 turns with ZPS and giving the front more preload I’m still 1/4 lower in front. Front suspension is great rear needs more tuning for deep whoops I’m bottoming out and getting pitched to the side too much.
Another note I want a steering stabilizer for hitting those rocks.
my motor ran hotter when I was in sandy washes about 170 degrees and cooled to 145 on hard packed dirt ( ditched my cardboard radiator blocker). Electric fan not reading same temp as my trail tech when at higher temps so need to figure that out.
Lost my exhaust springs and one caliper slider bolt.

Biggest thing for me is the lack of torque, started to do a hill climb (soft dirt) and realized when I started to climb I had to keep it pined in 3rd for about 12 seconds to the top and temp hit 190. Couple other technical spots had me nervous to climb So I will be checking into doing a 350 built motor. I want to let off the throttle when needed and be able to pull back through it. This motor does not work well with what I do. Most of the time I was 3/4 to WOT or very high rpm. Overall this things a blast to ride but way more tiring than my dirt bike.
also got my rear blue sequential chase light the day before I left so built a quick bracket for it.
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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
Did some more suspension measuring, my front end is still 1/2 lower with me on it and that’s with 22” tires. Talked to motowoz and I will be sending the fronts back in so he can modify them. Awesome customer service and stands by his stuff and a willingness to make things correct even tho It could be my A arm mounting points. Also sent in my other motor to CT for repair and will most likely be going with a PV 350 will see how this goes. Still haven’t heard from BDT from my original plans to do a 265… it’s been well over 6 months since they had my cases, jug and counter balancer.
 

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You have a 38mm carb right? If so that may be a little too much carb for good bottom on a quad without a big bore. Compression makes a big difference in power but it doesn't demand any larger of a carburetor. 250 dirt bikes all come stock with 38s but they don't need the bottom that a quad does. That's probably why you gotta scream it. You might go down to a 36 before your other engines get done especially if there is going to be a wait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
You have a 38mm carb right? If so that may be a little too much carb for good bottom on a quad without a big bore. Compression makes a big difference in power but it doesn't demand any larger of a carburetor. 250 dirt bikes all come stock with 38s but they don't need the bottom that a quad does. That's probably why you gotta scream it. You might go down to a 36 before your other engines get done especially if there is going to be a wait.
Yup you’re probably right I might just throw the stock carb on and see how it feels I’d expect to gain more bottom but I’m doubting as much as I want. I’m used to my ktm 300 power and that’s what I’m expecting from a 350 build so we will see. But I also just sent my shocks back out too.
 

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I have a hotrods LR crank & an unported 88-89 cylinder on my wife's 86 along with an 86 head, 85-86 atc head gasket(205 psi), boyesen rad valve, keihin 38as & an FMF Don Emler gold series(H-13). It run's amazing for what it is & has plenty of torque so I don't think your engine has too much carburetor. I have a feeling its the unknown porting you have in your cylinder.... I have a cylinder I tried porting myself years ago that I basically ruined because I didn't know what I was doing at the time. I hogged out the boost ports & did a bunch of grinding on the exhaust side & turned that cylinder into a torqueless high rpm light switch... Another thing you can try to gain torque but maintain most of the top end is switch to a flat slide Keihin 38PJ or a Mikuni 38TMX.
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
I have a hotrods LR crank & an unported 88-89 cylinder on my wife's 86 along with an 86 head, 85-86 atc head gasket(205 psi), boyesen rad valve, keihin 38as & an FMF Don Emler gold series(H-13). It run's amazing for what it is & has plenty of torque so I don't think your engine has too much carburetor. I have a feeling it’s the unknown porting you have in your cylinder.... I have a cylinder I tried porting myself years ago that I basically ruined because I didn't know what I was doing at the time. I hogged out the boost ports & did a bunch of grinding on the exhaust side & turned that cylinder into a torqueless high rpm light switch... Another thing you can try to gain torque but maintain most of the top end is switch to a flat slide Keihin 38PJ or a Mikuni 38TMX.
yeah somebody did make the boosters bigger and knife edged the transfers. I’m assuming they took too much material out hurting my low end. I could send out a stock cylinder I have to have a piston fited but I will see. Lack of torque is so bad at lower rpm that when I climbed a pretty big uphill that had a turn at the top (soft dirt) I let off to make the turn, downshifted and tried to slip the clutch some and I just killed it. so I was stuck sideways on a hill for a moment. I will call CT Monday since they received my other motor and figure out their time frame. If it’s too long I’ll swap cylinders with my stock one for now. With the FMF pipe on, it hit hard and revs to 9500rpm but while in 5th gear cruising along, 13/39 gears, bead lock wheels I’d have to be at like 6800 rpm to accelerate into 6th. This other pipe I have will rev to 8300 rpm and takes the hard hit away helped torque some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
Another thing I forgot to mention when I took my 250r out on the day trip, I was riding along went to hit the front brakes and the lever pulled all the way to the bars! I got off and thought I blew a line or seal but there was no leaks so I pumped the front levers again and the brakes felt normal again so I continued on. Well when I got home I noticed I had a slide caliper bolt missing! So I locktighted a new bolt and thought all was well. Today I took off the front tire and noticed a brake pad was completely gone! Well that explains why I had loss of front breaks and when I pumped it up the front it got stiff again haha
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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
Next few days I will be taking differences in my toe in and out through the travel to see if I can minimize it using angle iron on the hub surfaces to easily measure the differences. Also mocking up flat bar as a shock to simulate the longest shock I can run without problems then drilling holes at different points in the travel to measure the toe differences in attempt to minimize bump steer.
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Glad to hear that Motowoz is taking care of you. As for BDT, are you at least in communication with them assuming they still have all of your parts?

It’s a good thing that you figured out the front brake caliper issue. I imagine that could have done some damage to the caliper or disc, or worse locked up the front wheel while riding, if you didn’t.

I’m interested to see what you find when measuring the toe differences and how it changes over the travel. I’ve never measured, but my red 250R with LSR arms and 86 spindles is pretty bad just by looking at it. Depending on what you find, do you think you will try different geometry components (spindles, etc.) to improve bump steer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
Glad to hear that Motowoz is taking care of you. As for BDT, are you at least in communication with them assuming they still have all of your parts?

It’s a good thing that you figured out the front brake caliper issue. I imagine that could have done some damage to the caliper or disc, or worse locked up the front wheel while riding, if you didn’t.

I’m interested to see what you find when measuring the toe differences and how it changes over the travel. I’ve never measured, but my red 250R with LSR arms and 86 spindles is pretty bad just by looking at it. Depending on what you find, do you think you will try different geometry components (spindles, etc.) to improve bump steer?
BDT phone goes straight to voicemail also tried Facebook messenger which they’ve responded to me before but nothing yet. I will try harder tomorrow to get into contact.
As far as bump steer I know I need to set camber and leave it alone because it will affect the angle of the tie rod. Then I will see how much toe will change through the travel and see if I can correct it or make it better with washers and if I have too I will see about making my own steering arm at the hub if it’s bad. As far as spindle geometry I’m not to familiar yet with how it affects handling. But for now I will try to just minimize bump steer. I will not be able to completely eliminate it since the tie rod is still longer than the A arms. If I can find a a way to make the tie rod the same length and angle as the A arms then I could eliminate it all through the entire travel.
 

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A steering stabilizer will change the handling drastically. I put a CCP on my R about 8 years ago & it was the best handling improvement I've ever done to it. The stabilizer improved handling better than the Works shocks I put on the front & back. In the dunes my R doesn't track & follow ruts anymore with the stabilizer so I don't have to fight the bars all the time.
 
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