I've rebuilt 2 complete sets of brakes using Shindy rebuild kits. Both sets were from 86's & I used the front mc kit that is listed for the 87-89 & they worked just fine. Got 7 years on one set of brakes & 5 years on the other set & they all still work great.
Posts by scrappy
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The linkage bushings should move freely but if they don't even after everything is clean consider yourself lucky because a tight bushing can be made to fit just right. Usually its the other way around & those bushings get excessively worn & fit sloppy & there's currently no pivotworks replacement kits available
Given the fact there just flat delrin washers I would say they most likely don't seal or keep anything from getting in there. If the bushings are machined to the same specs as the original steel bushings than you should be able to put the stock seals back in for some protection or maybe just use o-rings between the washers & linkage
There's a dirtbike caliper people use, I think it's from a YZ but it's not necessarily an upgrade. Only thing your gaining there is the lack of a park brake option so there's no special piston or an extra hole to leak but parts & or alternatives are still available for oem calipers & when there rebuilt they work awesome.
This is true but honestly I've never understood the reason for ditching the snorkel & plugging the hole. By doing that your reducing the amount of incoming air even when you have a cut lid or no lid. I ride in the sand mostly & run an oem airbox with a lid that has almost the whole top cut out & a piece of spandex type material that i put over the cover & tuck the extra material into the airbox. For the snorkel I cut a piece of material I got from a fabric store thats what k&n pre-filters are made from & I put a piece of that in the joint where the snorkel tubes fit together than use the rubber band to keep it secure. I used to also run a pre-filter but since it never got dirty I stopped using it. I never find sand in the airbox using this method & I get plenty of air to feed my oem cylinders..... I have one extra snorkel if you need one.
Heating won't discolor it since its brand new. If it was old & faded than it would probably change with heat. I've successfully tweaked oem & maier front & rear fenders, hoods & even straightened bulged out rear MC resi's using a heat gun. Just take your time, wear gloves, heat the plastic slowly, check it often & keep the heat gun constantly moving.
My R had that same Answer silencer when I got it back in 1988... Not all silencers & pipes fit together nicely. The bend angle of the silencer & pipe stingers between brands can vary some. I tried putting an LRD silencer on an R with a CT mid range pipe & the angle of the bends were so far off I would've needed a 3" spacer between the frame & silencer mount. That same LRD silencer fit just fine on a PT pipe.
I have a hotrods LR crank & an unported 88-89 cylinder on my wife's 86 along with an 86 head, 85-86 atc head gasket(205 psi), boyesen rad valve, keihin 38as & an FMF Don Emler gold series(H-13). It run's amazing for what it is & has plenty of torque so I don't think your engine has too much carburetor. I have a feeling its the unknown porting you have in your cylinder.... I have a cylinder I tried porting myself years ago that I basically ruined because I didn't know what I was doing at the time. I hogged out the boost ports & did a bunch of grinding on the exhaust side & turned that cylinder into a torqueless high rpm light switch... Another thing you can try to gain torque but maintain most of the top end is switch to a flat slide Keihin 38PJ or a Mikuni 38TMX.
A steering stabilizer will change the handling drastically. I put a CCP on my R about 8 years ago & it was the best handling improvement I've ever done to it. The stabilizer improved handling better than the Works shocks I put on the front & back. In the dunes my R doesn't track & follow ruts anymore with the stabilizer so I don't have to fight the bars all the time.
I'm sure the Precision stabilizer is a very nice piece but I have never owned one so I can't speak from experience on them. For the price of the Precision though you can get 2 CCP's & have $140 left in your pocket. I have CCP's on 2 of 3 R's, one is 8 years old & the other is 6 years old. They have 8 settings using a dial & they work flawlessly. I'm getting one more for my son's R next because when I took it to the dunes for a quick day trip last fall I forgot how different they rode without a stabilizer & it beat me up so bad I had to leave early. The dunes were very rough though & its got stock suspension, plus I'm creeping up on 50.lol
He must have recently sold out but he restocks them often. Probably by the end of next week. Here's a link to one he makes for a trx450: honda TRX 450r ccp stabilizer | eBay
He has them back in stock: honda TRX 250R ccp stabilizer 1986-89 | eBay
I had to grind a mount slightly to clear a weld on one but other than that had no issue's installing CCP stabilizers on 2 of my 86's, both have Galfer single line kits. I've never noticed the bars being that hard to turn even when I ride in tight woods with them set stiff.
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