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Discussion Starter #1
So, i just got my trx and since it's off season here, aka winter, i'm working on it to get ready for 2020 season.

First thing i did is removing the head. The head is stock. So i did a little port job on intakes/transfer without touching port timing.

The pics are after sand blasting, there is little bit more job to do, but it's almost done.

I removed the clutch cover and cheked the impeller....

So first question, is it normal that the impeller is hard to turn??? They way it's done, to seal both side and the spring stuff is pretty new to me.


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The WP Impeller answer is Yes, they are hard to turn when the Mechanical Seal, Oil Seal, and Shaft are New...once worn in they are a lot easier to turn...never should they turn freely or spin with little resistance, that's an indication the WP assy is worn out.

If you "sand blasted" as stated; you need to ultrasonically clean the cylinder vigorously; if you don't it will wear your piston & cylinder quickly as sand particles embed into the Aluminum casting, Harsh washing alone does NOT remove the sand particles.

Carlos
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thx for the reply !!

Yes, the sandblasting was not a good idea. Kind of a brain fart ;-)

Hopefully, the porting was not finished, so i reworked some area and did the final surface finishing with sanding drums.

Lesson learned.


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Discussion Starter #7
Use a grease gun or Hydraulic pressure to remove frozen piston...FYI; fill from Brake Oil Line inlet.

Carlos
I'll probably have to make an adapter (M10x1.25) to use hydraulic pressure from our hydraulic jack.

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I wouldn't suggest filling your caliper with grease, would be a chore to clean afterwards. I would soak the piston in pb blaster. Hook it back up to your brake system. slightly compress the working piston with a c-clamp, to keep it from falling out, then pump the brakes to see if you can get the stuck piston to move. If not, use a propane torch to heat the caliper slightly and try again. I have drilled and tapped pistons before, then use a slide hammer to pop them out. You have to be extremely careful, so you don't drill into the caliper body.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I wouldn't suggest filling your caliper with grease, would be a chore to clean afterwards. I would soak the piston in pb blaster. Hook it back up to your brake system. slightly compress the working piston with a c-clamp, to keep it from falling out, then pump the brakes to see if you can get the stuck piston to move. If not, use a propane torch to heat the caliper slightly and try again. I have drilled and tapped pistons before, then use a slide hammer to pop them out. You have to be extremely careful, so you don't drill into the caliper body.
I did an adaptor yesterday to be able to use a manual hydraulic pump. I didnt try it so far 'cause one fitting is missing. I should get it next week.

I also worked on a lefty thumb throttle for a friend.



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Discussion Starter #11
The clutch baskett is grooved, will buy an anodized one.


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while you got it all apart, probably give the frame a good review too. the kickstarter side front motor mount on the frame needs to crack, rear seat mount, where the swingarm bolt goes through on both sides, and the area up by where the steering stem mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
while you got it all apart, probably give the frame a good review too. the kickstarter side front motor mount on the frame needs to crack, rear seat mount, where the swingarm bolt goes through on both sides, and the area up by where the steering stem mounts.
Yup, im pondering about a gusset kit. I didnt wanted to modify it the first season....But here we go again... ;-)

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Looking good Glorfindel....!

On the Basket, while it has groves, it can be filed flat & smooth and used a few more years; no need for a billet basket yet.

Don't worry about getting grease into the Caliper. Soak in Kerosene overnight and all the grease or hydraulic oil will dissolve. Also; this is an old trick used extensively by Brake re-builders since day one without issues.

Frames only need gussets if heavily used, abused or cracked...I would not gusset unless needed.

Carlos
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Looking good Glorfindel....!

On the Basket, while it has groves, it can be filed flat & smooth and used a few more years; no need for a billet basket yet.

Don't worry about getting grease into the Caliper. Soak in Kerosene overnight and all the grease or hydraulic oil will dissolve. Also; this is an old trick used extensively by Brake re-builders since day one without issues.

Frames only need gussets if heavily used, abused or cracked...I would not gusset unless needed.

Carlos
Ok, thx, i'll try to get rid of the groves.

The frame dont have cracks so far, i will do a better inspection soon. It will not be abused since it will be used in trails, so thx again for the info, that will save me some $$$.

Still waiting for my fitting to remove the pistons from the calipers.

Next step is remove the engine and split cases! Will have to order the puller.

Thx again!!!

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Sorry to say but you didn't need to go through the trouble of making that adapter to connect a hydraulic line to your caliper even though it looks trick.... You just need a short bolt & some sealing washers to plug the inlet hole than crack the bleeder valve & use a standard grease gun to push the pistons out. I've used this method to rebuild all 6 calipers on both my R's & it worked great.
 

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Sorry to say but you didn't need to go through the trouble of making that adapter to connect a hydraulic line to your caliper even though it looks trick.... You just need a short bolt & some sealing washers to plug the inlet hole than crack the bleeder valve & use a standard grease gun to push the pistons out. I've used this method to rebuild all 6 calipers on both my R's & it worked great.
Grease or Hydraulic fluid is sometimes the only way to remove stuck pistons. :)

Carlos
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Way better now. I'll float the ground and put 150w full bridge reg/rec. I will put a small 7" long led light in front and a red one on the back.


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