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Discussion Starter #1
Just curious as to how many of you guys still Run the 250R in the woods. I know they used to be the hottest bike back int he barry hawk days, now its a 450 world. I know a few guys that still run the R, and im in the process of planning a Xc build on my 86.

Whats the best setup, how are you guys doing again the thumpers?

Im planning on swapping my 86 bottom end for 88 longrod, low port and pipe, not sure on suspension yet, flexx bars, antivibe , stabalizer all that.

Whats the best gearing w/ 20" and low pipe and port? Any other pointers you guys can give me to get me headed in the right direction on this build will be much appreciated. It will probably be at least a year before its finished but it will be fun, and worth it :p
 

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i ran my R in the woods for 5 years, i wouldnt use anything else. 2-strokes are ideal for XC racing. they're light weight and very agile. the key to XC is to be fluid. you dont need a broad powerband because you should be staying in a relatively small RPM range. XC isnt smash the gas from tree A to tree B its find the way to be the smoothest from tree A to tree B. races go from 2-3 hours, you need to be fluid to stay fresh that whole time. this is where the weight and handling advantage of the 250R pay off. its no coincidence that the bike pro's still predominately run 2-strokes. find what gearing works for you and your riding style. start off at stock gearing, if it revs out too quick in the lower gears, go up a sprocket. i ran 14:38 with 20" XCR's. a stabilizer is necessary, i think the fast flexx bars are more of a luxury. practicing and getting comfortable on the bike is going to help the most. make a loop with mixed terrain and run it till you cant hold on any more. work on keeping your RPM's constant. work on your clutch control in the tight stuff, and work on being fluid on the bike and the trail. its much faster in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i ran my R in the woods for 5 years, i wouldnt use anything else. 2-strokes are ideal for XC racing. they're light weight and very agile. the key to XC is to be fluid. you dont need a broad powerband because you should be staying in a relatively small RPM range. XC isnt smash the gas from tree A to tree B its find the way to be the smoothest from tree A to tree B. races go from 2-3 hours, you need to be fluid to stay fresh that whole time. this is where the weight and handling advantage of the 250R pay off. its no coincidence that the bike pro's still predominately run 2-strokes. find what gearing works for you and your riding style. start off at stock gearing, if it revs out too quick in the lower gears, go up a sprocket. i ran 14:38 with 20" XCR's. a stabilizer is necessary, i think the fast flexx bars are more of a luxury. practicing and getting comfortable on the bike is going to help the most. make a loop with mixed terrain and run it till you cant hold on any more. work on keeping your RPM's constant. work on your clutch control in the tight stuff, and work on being fluid on the bike and the trail. its much faster in the long run.

thanks for the reply. I already Run Xc i got that part down, i practice every chance i get. But currently have been running my 700 raptor w/ flexx, stabalizer, antivibe, etc all the goodies I can go 4-5 hours straight (w/ a few slow downs here and there) honestly and still not be beat up too bad.

I was just asking Q's because this is the first 250r ive owned and i know the setup will be a little different for the power range, my stock 86 has to be kept high in the revs to run good as it is now, i defintaly dont want that for the woods :blink:

I think if i get the R setup right, w/ te good agility and handling of it i can improve lap times drastically. I tried a few 450's (have a yfz) and im just more comfortable on the 700, probably because its setup more for woods w/ the mods ive done.

Just wanted to see what setups you woods guys are running so i can get some planning in for this build. Oem longrod motors seem to be the way to go in the woods, as opposed to the 86 motors? what have you guys found to be the best suspension setup for this?

I know its all personal preferance but id like to get a good idea before i go buying and trying lol i cant afford that right now.

thanks again
 

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+1 a arms are nice. I ran +2 arms last year to be more versitile between woods, MX, and open terrain. If I were doing pure woods, I would use +1 arms. I had a +2 up +1 forward stem on mine, and that helped alot for standing, but Im over 6'3. Extra wide footpegs with kickups are a must have in my opinion. Steering stabilizers are great too. Run as much compression as you can and get a Rad valve, will help a ton on low end snap. I really liked my Paul Turner "89 Race" midrange pipe. Thats the basics
 

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we have a couple R's set up for woods ..
If ya really want good info on a XC set up ...I can get ya Barry's old mechanics #
 

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Where is MindCrime?? He's also another guy to talk to about XC R's. Hopefully he'll make his way over here.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys

ya i was planning on +1 long travel if i can afford it. I like the handling of it now as it sits, but i think i can get away w/ a touch wider. Some tracks are pretty tight though lol. So is the long rod bottom end worth it? that much difference on bottom end?

Will i be ok w/ a sealed airbox (lid on) w/ a uni, if i do the xc port, pipe, rad valve, etc.?? Id much rather leave the lid on since it gets pretty sloppy.

Stock swingarm strong enough to hold up? I wont be launching it 100 ft but i doubt it will JUST be a woods bike, im sure ill be jumping a good bit.
 

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A good stocker should hold up mine still has. i don't race but ride through the woods like i do. more fun that way. but a friend of mine has gone trough a few stockers. but a 450r swingarm fit with little modification and i think its 88-89 lenght. the aluminum is more flexable than the stock steel. and you can pick one up off ebay cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hmmm thats good to know. Ive come to find out the R parts are interchangeable w/ other bikes quite a bit i like that lol.
 

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dont rig it
 

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I don't call putting 400ex spindles on a 250r a Rig, many racers use/used them and with adpaters, you can use 250r calipers. 04/05 450r spindle, hubs and brakes are a very popular swap, the front brakes are just as good as 250r calipers too and everything for the front end is availble.
 

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I'm not splitting hairs here ... :angry:
there's R parts & there is the others :lol:
 

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as long as its a honda part it aint rigged. :D
it is still an R part........... just a 450R part :p
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ya im up for more availability for sure.

I just said i like the fact that they have interchangeable parts because i have a few 400exs around.

I can use the asr +2 a arms/shocks from the ex right?
 

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stock shocks from the 250r 400ex and 450r are all interchangable. the arms might fit but i dont know.
 

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the ex shocks and a-arms are basically the same, the a-arm mounts for the EX are just narrower so you have to shim them them on a 250R. the 450R spindle, hub calipers update is very nice. i guess if using newer, better parts is rigging it, then by all means rig it!
 

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newer doesn't always mean better parts. 400ex brakes are 10 years newer, but aren't half as good. But yes, available and as good/if not better, certainly is good. I would be interested in putting a 04/05 trx450r spindle/hub/brake setup on my trx250r one day. Thats if I ever need to, I have a few sets of spindles, brakes and hubs for 88 and 89 250r's.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ya im all for the saying if it aint broke dont fix it, but if something were to break then its nice to know theres parts from other models available. But from what i can tell from my 86 the stock brakes have plenty of stopping power, I have a leaky front master im going to replace w/ a 400ex one jus because i have a few of them laying around, but im leaving the calipers and that be for now...
 

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put money into a nice suspension (axis,elka) if you got it. having power is nice but not nessicary. i run +2 lsr arms with fully adjustable axis and in the roughest stuff i rides smooth also an antivibe steering stem and a damper is a must have. also if you have the means go over +gusset your stock frame i cracked mine i guess enough racing will do that.
 
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