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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
for the past year and a half I've been hunting down parts missing from a quad I aquired in a trade, it's a trx250r 86 engine in an 88 frame. brand new ct racing rebuild...350pv. started this weekend first time. issues...the kickstart lever has about 1/5 rotation free play so if the lever fits into the cutaway in the fender I don't get enough of a kick to start the quad. after way too much kicking without result I turned the kicker back a few splines and quad starts fine but kicker doesn't fit into detent in fender...any tricks or fixes? second thing is the frame is in the way of most air filters. I found an angled unifilter that works but I would really love to have an airbox(lots of water crossings around here) but the stock airbox rubber will not fit over larger carb. I tried heating it in hot water to soften and maybe stretch it but that didn't work so I figured i'de ask folks who have gotten around these issues. I do have an airbox eliminater kit but the big rubber tube won't clear the frame to meet the carb. thanks for any insight or advice. waiting right now on a new petcock and rear master cylinder while I rest my badly bruised right foot. ps bdt and Carlos rock, cr500 ignition kit installed...no lights used.
 

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That’s really strange on the kicker. I wonder if something internally was assembled incorrectly. You shouldn’t have any issues kick starting it with the kicker in the correct position.

Try a heat gun to warm the boot and stretch it over the carb. It’ll go. I had the same issue recently where the boiling water method wouldn’t do the trick, but the heat gun did. It’s easiest to do this with the carb off. Then you can run your airbox.

As an alternative, a guy named Sonny Fricia makes billet intakes that correct the carb angle to prevent interference with the frame. You can find him on Facebook.
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Something people might not always think about when putting the motor together is not the kickstarter return spring but rather the condition of the spring that pushes the gear back into position on the side-to-side plane once the gear is no longer engaged. Running into this on my 91 KX125 where the kicker usually goes back where it should while kicking but sometimes sits there dead. The return spring is fine and still will knock your heel around if you let it. Gears and splines are fine too with no damage. I replaced the pusher spring since it felt a little weak in my hand as compared to the new one (since it was so cheap I just went ahead and ordered it because I already had the clutch off to replace crank seals). But I still am waiting on a couple small things to put it all the way back together and ride it.

The pusher spring is Number 4 on the kickstarter diagram.

Also a sticky or bent kickstarter seal could be slowing you down.
 

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Which does lead me to believe it could be the pusher spring as in it's not pushing the kickstarter gear out to meet the clutch gear right away when you push down on the kicker or a draggy seal is holding it back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks I will check that out but when I moved the kicker back a few splines it still has the freeplay but now gives me more kick. it does this every time and I think if it were the return spring it would occasionally work properly. I will check it out though just checked rocky mtn atv and that part doesn't ship and haven't found it on bdt's sight either.getting late on the east coast so I will look more tomorrow. thanks for giving me a direction to follow. this forum rocks.
 

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You can use a beer bottle to stretch the stock air box boot more to clear the carb after using hot water to soften up the boot. Let the boot sit on the beer bottle over night and it will fit, I used a corona bottle for its girth and it worked perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Something people might not always think about when putting the motor together is not the kickstarter return spring but rather the condition of the spring that pushes the gear back into position on the side-to-side plane once the gear is no longer engaged. Running into this on my 91 KX125 where the kicker usually goes back where it should while kicking but sometimes sits there dead. The return spring is fine and still will knock your heel around if you let it. Gears and splines are fine too with no damage. I replaced the pusher spring since it felt a little weak in my hand as compared to the new one (since it was so cheap I just went ahead and ordered it because I already had the clutch off to replace crank seals). But I still am waiting on a couple small things to put it all the way back together and ride it.

The pusher spring is Number 4 on the kickstarter diagram.

Also a sticky or bent kickstarter seal could be slowing you down.
WHERE DID YOU FIND THIS SPRING...NO ONE CARRIES IT
 

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For the KX125 I'm working on it is still kept in stock. I didn't do much looking for the 250R one. KXs didn't really change as much as people think so they could have been using the same spring until 2007 or later. I can't say if using something that doesn't cross-reference for the 250R would be a good idea -- it seems the tension is pretty specific.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think it's me...I am 64years old 6'3 and about 290 lbs I hate to admit it but young men can start this quad after several kicks...me ..not so much. I have started it once with and once without starting fluid. god I hate to think I'm getting old and feeble. I can kick over my Norton 850 my klx650r with high lift cams and high comp pistons and my gasgas 300 trials bike but I am now considering making a removable bracket to lengthen the kick lever on this quad unless one already exists. hopefully it's just learning to kick this beast over forward but it is seriously hurting my pride. haven't ridden it yet, just did the 4th start up as per ct racings instructions. running klotz 110 octane race gas with klotz r-50 at 32 to 1. ngk BR8EIX IRIDIUM, 195 main and 50 pilot. once it starts it idles fine revs quick and settles right to idle. I am about 30 feet above sea level. ps my right foot hurts!
 
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