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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m having some coolant leaking issues on my new build at the head/acorn nuts and on the ESR quick change cover/hose barb. Note that this is just after putting it together and adding coolant - it’s never been ran.

It appears that the acorn nuts themselves are leaking based on where the leaked coolant can be seen (on top) and possibly at the crush washer too. I’m not sure if the head studs are too long and after torquing the acorn nuts they’ve developed micro cracks or what. Has anyone seen this before? Does anyone have any recommendations for acorn nuts that can be used here?
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Second is the ESR quick change cover/hose barb. I bought this cover used and it didn’t come with the hose barbs. I found some billet ones at Edelbrock, which did not thread very well into the cover. I retapped the the cover threads, but the way it’s threaded into the cover and with the depth of the tap, I wasn’t able to retap as many of the threads as I would have liked. I used thread tape and threaded in the barb, which felt fairly secure/tight, but it was definitely suspect. And now it’s leaking🤬
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To salvage this cover I’d like to try and reseal it, but use something better than typical thread tape. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to use here? I found this product, which is pricey, but figured I’d ask here first for any better options/suggestions before ordering.

 

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My head studs were leaking like that also, but after a ride, not from just sitting. Change the washers out and retorque the nuts and see what happens. I replaced the ESR washers with copper washers from LED and they stopped leaking since. I’m not saying that LED’s are any better but I just had a spare head seal kit from LED laying around and just decided to replace the washers.
 

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1987 TRX 250R ESR 330 ported by Selvy
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I too recently had my acorn nuts leak. I thought it was leaking from the bottom where the copper washer is but it ended up being the nut itself. If you remove the leaking nut you can tap on it and you will notice it feels like it's two pieces or maybe just cracked. I changed one and then I had another different one fail. I changed them all to the billet acorn nuts. So far so good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I’m happy to share that the Loctite 263 and MacDaddy Racing acorn nuts have done the trick! At least so far. I also added a thin film of high temp rtv on both sides of the washers as well.
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One thing I noticed when I reinstalled the headstay was how poorly the head bolt lined up. When I previously installed it, I must have put the head bolt in first before the frame bolts. I imagine that it was torquing the head/cylinder more than it should have by doing so. Instead of forcing it, I’m either going to leave the bolt out (seems a lot of people don’t run the headstay anyway) or open up the hole to allow clearance to easily get the bolt back in there.
 

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I don’t run my head stay, it doesn’t line up at all, mines is pushed off to one side with the headstay on, the only way I can fit mine is if I shave the mounting on the head itself. But I just figured it’s less complicated by leaving the headstay completely off. Like you said, Most guys do anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I actually went back and loosened the other motor mounts and the headstay. It settled into a better position and then I used a round file to take just a little bit off the hole to get the bolt through. Everything is bolted back together now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don’t run my head stay, it doesn’t line up at all, mines is pushed off to one side with the headstay on, the only way I can fit mine is if I shave the mounting on the head itself. But I just figured it’s less complicated by leaving the headstay completely off. Like you said, Most guys do anyways.
I like the head stay, especially as a structural support for the frame even if there isn’t a bolt through the head itself. Without it, I imagine there is extra flex and strain on the frame.
 
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