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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could I use something like this to run led lights on my quad? I bought it with no lights or switches on the bars anymore. Want to add a switch and led light bar but read you need to float the ground and add a battery and stuff to make the power DC. Found this and was curious if something like it would work? CISNO Dc 12v 10w-200w Transformer Power Supply Driver Led Light Waterproof Ip67 (150 Watts) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011TDKUCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_klz-ybXCZ48RC


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No to the best of my knowledge you could not use that. The input specified for that is 110V-260V AC which would be used for an electrical outlet in your home. The input needs to be around 12V-14V AC. The best thing to use would be this one from Trail Tech. Trail Tech || Regulator/Rectifier
This regulates to 12V and rectifies to a DC current. You need a regulator because the output of a standard 250R lighting coil varies greatly with engine RPM. Mine fluctuates from about 11V all the way up to 75V when you hit the throttle.
You would still need to float the grounds to run this setup. Trail Tech also makes a nice small battery designed specifically for this purpose. Trail Tech || Battery
I'm in the process of re wiring and floating my grounds right now. If you have any other questions let me know. I usually draw up colored wiring diagrams to refer back to later if I change something so I could share those as well
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was hoping to use something like I posted and not have to float the grounds, seems like it would be a pain but maybe it's not as difficult as I'm thinking. A colored wiring diagram would be awesome though so I can refer to that if I go that route.




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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
a stock stator will run led lights and no need to convert it to dc unless you want to run a battery and be able to have the lights on when not running.
That's interesting because everything I've read keeps saying led wont run on ac. My original plan was to just hook the old headlight positive and negative to a led light bar and be done with it but from all the other posts I didnt think it'd work


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As far as I know there's no way to run DC without a floated ground. I'll be sure to post the wiring diagram when I'm done.
And a stock setup will run an LED for a while. Thing is LEDs have a fixed polarity so they flicker on alternating current. After a while the constant flickering will burn them out. It's kinda like standing in your bedroom and flipping the light switch on and off for an hour; the bulb is eventually gonna blow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh ok gotcha that makes sense then. That's why some guys say it "works" with stock wiring. Thanks man! Please post the diagram when you're done! I don't need an led light bar burning out on me while riding


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another option you can do is add a small battery.this is what we do for our crf450.it will run a led for several hours without a problem.another thing is we use a small 4'' led and you would be surprised how bright it is and no need for a 10"+ led....and I got 2 shipped for under $20
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
another option you can do is add a small battery.this is what we do for our crf450.it will run a led for several hours without a problem.another thing is we use a small 4'' led and you would be surprised how bright it is and no need for a 10"+ led....and I got 2 shipped for under $20
That's a good idea too. What kind of battery are you using? I was thinking about doing that and using maybe an rc car battery or drill battery because those would be easy to mount but wasn't sure how long they would last. Where did you find the leds for under $20? And did you go with flood or spot light? Thanks!


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok awesome thanks. I'm going to probably run that for now until I can figure out floating the ground. Was looking at the wires coming out of the stator and they look like they are brand new so I need to look into that more and see if it's stock or not


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I made up a basic wiring diagram for a floated ground using the Trail Tech regulator/rectifier and battery. If your stator is stock or similar you should have a Red/Black wire for ignition, Blue/Yellow and Green/White for pulse generator on a 2 wire plug, and the White wire is for the lighting coil. You will need to solder a new ground wire onto the stator when you separate the lighting coil from the motor ground. This is shown as the second White wire in my first diagram. The Red, Black, and Red/Yellow wires pointing to the right and ending are the 12V DC outputs. It is important that anything you choose to run on the DC power is grounded to the Black wire and NOT the frame. The Red wire is constant power. The Red/Yellow wire is only live when the motor is running(great for a cooling fan). The Second diagram is a wiring harness with no lights, only what's needed for the bike to run.
Let me know what color wires are coming from your stator if it does not match what's here and let me know if you have any more questions.
Keith
 

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Could I use something like this to run led lights on my quad? I bought it with no lights or switches on the bars anymore. Want to add a switch and led light bar but read you need to float the ground and add a battery and stuff to make the power DC. Found this and was curious if something like it would work? CISNO Dc 12v 10w-200w Transformer Power Supply Driver Led Light Waterproof Ip67 (150 Watts) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011TDKUCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_klz-ybXCZ48RC


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You don't need to float the ground on a stock OEM Stator as long as you run through a battery and regulator/rectifier....done it at BDT Motorsports for customers dozens of times. Trail Tech as mentioned by keefer250r is a good source for both the battery & regulator/rectifier.

With this set-up; you can run an LED bar, and eliminate the lights from diming at idle and becoming bright as you throttle up...they stay a constant 'brightness' from idle to WOT.

Carlos
 

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You don't need to float the ground on a stock OEM Stator as long as you run through a battery and regulator/rectifier....done it at BDT Motorsports for customers dozens of times. Trail Tech as mentioned by keefer250r is a good source for both the battery & regulator/rectifier.

With this set-up; you can run an LED bar, and eliminate the lights from diming at idle and becoming bright as you throttle up...they stay a constant 'brightness' from idle to WOT.

Carlos
Thank you Carlos for clearing that up before I wasted my time taking my stator out! Your saying I could just frame ground the second yellow wire on the reg/rec correct? I haven't hooked mine up yet and always wondered why the ground on the regulator/rectifier would need to be separated since the input side with the 2 yellow wires is still AC current. I just read everywhere that it had to be floated and was too scared to try it without separating the ground for fear of blowing my OEM stator and OEM CDI which you know are hard parts to find anymore.

I would assume you still couldn't ground the lights to the frame? They would need to ground back to the battery on the DC side right?

Thanks for all your help Carlos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the wiring diagrams! And yea more info on not separating the ground would be awesome that's the only part that makes me nervous. Thanks for all the info so far guys. I was starting to lean towards a small car jumper battery and just recharging when it dies but would much rather not have to recharge or worry about it dying when I'm out on a trail


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Here is a very useful explanation from my good friends at Ricky Stator..this will explain how to hook up LED's without floating the ground.

I use the Trail Tech battery and Regulator/Rectifier with an LED KC Hilights bar, never have had any issues.

Carlos
 
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