Honda TRX250R Forums banner

My '87 Trx maintenance and mods.

4K views 20 replies 6 participants last post by  SandSlinger 
#1 ·
So, i just got my trx and since it's off season here, aka winter, i'm working on it to get ready for 2020 season.

First thing i did is removing the head. The head is stock. So i did a little port job on intakes/transfer without touching port timing.

The pics are after sand blasting, there is little bit more job to do, but it's almost done.

I removed the clutch cover and cheked the impeller....

So first question, is it normal that the impeller is hard to turn??? They way it's done, to seal both side and the spring stuff is pretty new to me.


Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk
 
See less See more
1
#3 ·
The WP Impeller answer is Yes, they are hard to turn when the Mechanical Seal, Oil Seal, and Shaft are New...once worn in they are a lot easier to turn...never should they turn freely or spin with little resistance, that's an indication the WP assy is worn out.

If you "sand blasted" as stated; you need to ultrasonically clean the cylinder vigorously; if you don't it will wear your piston & cylinder quickly as sand particles embed into the Aluminum casting, Harsh washing alone does NOT remove the sand particles.

Carlos
 
#4 ·
Thx for the reply !!

Yes, the sandblasting was not a good idea. Kind of a brain fart ;-)

Hopefully, the porting was not finished, so i reworked some area and did the final surface finishing with sanding drums.

Lesson learned.


Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
I wouldn't suggest filling your caliper with grease, would be a chore to clean afterwards. I would soak the piston in pb blaster. Hook it back up to your brake system. slightly compress the working piston with a c-clamp, to keep it from falling out, then pump the brakes to see if you can get the stuck piston to move. If not, use a propane torch to heat the caliper slightly and try again. I have drilled and tapped pistons before, then use a slide hammer to pop them out. You have to be extremely careful, so you don't drill into the caliper body.
 
#13 ·
while you got it all apart, probably give the frame a good review too. the kickstarter side front motor mount on the frame needs to crack, rear seat mount, where the swingarm bolt goes through on both sides, and the area up by where the steering stem mounts.
 
#15 ·
Looking good Glorfindel....!

On the Basket, while it has groves, it can be filed flat & smooth and used a few more years; no need for a billet basket yet.

Don't worry about getting grease into the Caliper. Soak in Kerosene overnight and all the grease or hydraulic oil will dissolve. Also; this is an old trick used extensively by Brake re-builders since day one without issues.

Frames only need gussets if heavily used, abused or cracked...I would not gusset unless needed.

Carlos
 
#16 · (Edited)
Ok, thx, i'll try to get rid of the groves.

The frame dont have cracks so far, i will do a better inspection soon. It will not be abused since it will be used in trails, so thx again for the info, that will save me some $$$.

Still waiting for my fitting to remove the pistons from the calipers.

Next step is remove the engine and split cases! Will have to order the puller.

Thx again!!!

Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk
 
#17 ·
Sorry to say but you didn't need to go through the trouble of making that adapter to connect a hydraulic line to your caliper even though it looks trick.... You just need a short bolt & some sealing washers to plug the inlet hole than crack the bleeder valve & use a standard grease gun to push the pistons out. I've used this method to rebuild all 6 calipers on both my R's & it worked great.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top