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  1. #21
    Senior Member american opel's Avatar
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    have to kick at 500rpms or more to get them to spark.spark plug gap should also be .018-.020.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member acecarlos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrappy View Post
    What I posted is 100% accurate & there is no confusion. I basically reiterated what American opal stated about piston & rod combo's. Your right that a 72mm piston is the same design as the oem piston for the short rod crank since long rod piston's are only available up to 68mm.
    What you posted is incorrect as it does NOT apply to the OP's cylinder, that is what we are talking about correct?

    Again: "only true for an OEM cylinder NOT re-sleeved to 293CC...as the OP states he has"...basically; since their are NO "LR" (Long Rod) pistons for BB 292CC Sleeves, and never was...you will never have a situation of a "LR piston on the SR crank the skirt will hit the tins before it gets to bdc"...impossible with the OP's 292CC sleeved cylinder setup.

    Carlos

  3. #23
    Senior Member acecarlos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by american opel View Post
    have to kick at 500rpms or more to get them to spark.spark plug gap should also be .018-.020.
    ...Yes

    Quote Originally Posted by Justin335 View Post
    I am having a firing issue with my r hopefully someone can help me with I am getting no spark and sometimes intermittent spark I read some forums and did ohm test and here are my results stator was 217- pulse generator was 112- primary side of coil I could not get a reading it just said 0 and secondary coil side I was getting 3.5 so I'm thinking it is the coil because everything else is within spec I think. I also put a test light on the plug end of the coil and was getting a verry faint light flashing so I am assuming that means the pulse generator is working properly it is a nology coil I hate to go buying parts if it's not likely the coil so I need a little help from some of you that know more about it thanks with the coil lighting test light still has no spark
    If you are getting a spark, even a weak one; then it is not the ground.

    From experience, and in this order from most likely to least; IGN issues are usually related to CDI (can't check with OHM meter), Coil/Plug Wire/Boot, Stator, Wire Harness Connectors, ON/OFF Switch, Ground, Spark Plug and 'IGN Gremlins' (LOL).

    217 OHMS for the Stator is High, outside the 'Normal' working range. From experience; 125-180 OHMS is the ideal working range for OEM & Ricky Stator....Stators. At 0/3.5 OHMS...Get rid of the Nology Coil, use only Honda OEM Coils either New or Good used ones. You can also try a different/new OEM Plug Boot & Wire.

    Obviously clean all connectors well, specially the ON/OFF switch contacts as they seem to be one of the leading culprits to IGN issues. Remember that on the 250R IGN, even a perfectly good system will have a relatively "weak" spark...sometimes hardly visible in ambient lighting.

    Carlos

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  5. #24
    Member Justin335's Avatar
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    So where would be a good place to start I don't have a lot of money to throw at this thing I was thinking the coil and does anyone have a good used OEM cheap

  6. #25
    Senior Member The Norm's Avatar
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    To the OP..... Do you have a service manual? Tha honda service manual has all the specs listed for your ignition and a trouble shooting flow chart. Your pulse generator should be between 50-200 ohms per the factory honda service manual. Alternator exciter coil should be between 50-250 ohms per the Honda factory service manual. Ignition coil primary circuit should be between 0.1-0.3 ohms per the Honda Factory Service Manual. You might want to see if this site has a downloadable Honda Factory Service Manual. If you don't find one here check out .org. I know for sure you can find it there.
    Good luck
    bdt=pos!

    Current: Hybrid Engineering 391R
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  7. #26
    Senior Member The Norm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin335 View Post
    So where would be a good place to start I don't have a lot of money to throw at this thing I was thinking the coil and does anyone have a good used OEM cheap
    I bought a brand new honda coil from service honda for around $45. I would also suggest rockymountain atv. They have an OEM parts section. I know I have also seen a few on Ebay. I will caution you about Ebay though. There are a few Ebay sellers that have ridiculous prices and their parts come in an opened honda bag.
    scrappy and douglas like this.
    bdt=pos!

    Current: Hybrid Engineering 391R
    Hybrid Engineering 310R (super 310)
    Hybrid Engineering 265R
    Hybrid Engineering 250R

  8. #27
    Senior Member acecarlos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by acecarlos View Post
    ...Yes



    If you are getting a spark, even a weak one; then it is not the ground.

    From experience, and in this order from most likely to least; IGN issues are usually related to CDI (can't check with OHM meter), Coil/Plug Wire/Boot, Stator, Wire Harness Connectors, ON/OFF Switch, Ground, Spark Plug and 'IGN Gremlins' (LOL).

    217 OHMS for the Stator is High, outside the 'Normal' working range. From experience; 125-180 OHMS is the ideal working range for OEM & Ricky Stator....Stators. At 0/3.5 OHMS...Get rid of the Nology Coil, use only Honda OEM Coils either New or Good used ones. You can also try a different/new OEM Plug Boot & Wire.

    Obviously clean all connectors well, specially the ON/OFF switch contacts as they seem to be one of the leading culprits to IGN issues. Remember that on the 250R IGN, even a perfectly good system will have a relatively "weak" spark...sometimes hardly visible in ambient lighting.

    Carlos
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin335 View Post
    So where would be a good place to start I don't have a lot of money to throw at this thing I was thinking the coil and does anyone have a good used OEM cheap
    What I posted & copied above tells you how to proceed....get a Honda service manual, and/or if you have access to known-good OEM IGN components; test with those....if you need guidance; call me at BDT Motorsports and I will guide you through testing...N/C

    As far as were you purchase parts from; that's up to you, however; places like Service Honda are parts sellers that offer ZERO direct support for the 250R like BDT Motorsports or 250RTRIKES on eBay does.

    Don't listen to a few Ignorant posters on this forum. No need to fret over "parts come in an opened honda bag"...250RTRIKES stocks & lists over 5000 items on eBay with a 18,761 Positive rating over the past 10 Years @ 100% Positive. You don't maintain that kind of Positive Selling History on eBay if you are not WINNING for your customers...!

    Carlos
    Last edited by acecarlos; 02-06-2020 at 09:37 AM.
    matuus and american opel like this.

  9. #28
    Member Justin335's Avatar
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    So I’m still having issues with intermittent firing I have a buddy that has a 2003 cr 250but I don’t know anyone around here with an r I was wondering if I could maybe swap the coil and crib off of it to rule out that being my issue will those parts work on my r

  10. #29
    Senior Member acecarlos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin335 View Post
    So I’m still having issues with intermittent firing I have a buddy that has a 2003 cr 250but I don’t know anyone around here with an r I was wondering if I could maybe swap the coil and crib off of it to rule out that being my issue will those parts work on my r
    I don't know what a "crib" is in the 250R world...

    CR250R Coils are different from ATC/TRX250R 85-89 Coils, CR250R having One Spade connector and the Coil Body has Two rectangular tabs being the ground to frame....not a direct swap. If you're handy, you can make it work by making a short wire with an eye let on one end, and a spade connector on the other. This short wire will bolt through one of the Tabs on the CR250R Coil, the other end into the OEM Wire harness Green Female spade connector. Don't forget the CR250R Coil also needs to be bolted or connected to the frame as a separate ground.

    The Black wire is Positive, and Green is Ground...this would be the same for the CR250R Coil except their is no Green connection, your CR250R Coil Tabs are the ground.

    I've done this numerous times over the years, it will work, and if you do it as I stated, you won't need to alter any components to test.

    Carlos
    Last edited by acecarlos; Yesterday at 06:10 PM.

  11. #30
    Senior Member douglas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by acecarlos View Post
    What I posted & copied above tells you how to proceed....get a Honda service manual, and/or if you have access to known-good OEM IGN components; test with those....if you need guidance; call me at BDT Motorsports and I will guide you through testing...N/C

    As far as were you purchase parts from; that's up to you, however; places like Service Honda are parts sellers that offer ZERO direct support for the 250R like BDT Motorsports or 250RTRIKES on eBay does.

    Don't listen to a few Ignorant posters on this forum. No need to fret over "parts come in an opened honda bag"...250RTRIKES stocks & lists over 5000 items on eBay with a 18,761 Positive rating over the past 10 Years @ 100% Positive. You don't maintain that kind of Positive Selling History on eBay if you are not WINNING for your customers...!

    Carlos

    The king has spoken again others here trying to help. there was no direct connection that it was you selling on ebay . other than just be carefull ( is someone feeling guilty your past coming at you) this away's turns into a pissing match with BDT nothing but ignorance. to the op sorry for the intrusion but there are so many here who is sick of this crap with him. is he knowledgeable yes can he help yes but at what cost to others. insults aggression belittle others its always he is right and every one else is wrong. then the sales pitch call me at big dog turd i have the best and no one else carrys quality there stuff is crap. hope you trouble shoot you problem and read between the lines.
    good luck Douglas


 
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