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  1. #1
    Member zlowe712's Avatar
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    adjustable shocks

    I have works front shocks and sf racing shock in the rear ( never heard of that brand)

    when i push down on the quad they go to the ground and they dont come up, very soft,
    i Cant even do a wheely with the quad.....i tried adjusting them to make them hard and im not really sure what i need to do to fix this,
    is there somthing i can put in the shocks? nitrogen in the adjustable part? or what? i have never messed with aftermarket shocks so any info would help!
    86' trx 250r
    +3 a arms - works front shocks- zp rear shock- lsr +3 axle- lsr +2 steering stem - FMF full exhaust - reed spacer exc.

    ESR 350 cylinder with BDT cases in the works

  2. #2
    Senior Member Dman250r's Avatar
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    SF Racing is Seth Fligge. He doesn't make his own shocks but rebuilds a lot of em. He did a great job with my PEP's at a very reasonable price. Website is below.

    HOME - SF Racing


    1986 TRX310R

    ESR 310 xc ported running C12 at 210 psi
    ESR Trx-5 / 38mm Mikun i/ V-force 3 / Hiper Tech-3's
    PEP Shocks / Burgard +2 arms and +2 stem
    Lonestar swinger / WestCoast hubs / CCP stabilizer
    Full skids / Fat bars / NAC's shrouds
    Motorsports nerfs / AC front bumper
    Precision shock and Vibe / Pro-fab footpegs
    RAD Axle nut / etc. etc.

  3. #3
    Member zlowe712's Avatar
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    o ok....but can you help me out with my shock situation? do you know if i put like nitrogen in the adjustable part? and any idea why they could be so soft?
    86' trx 250r
    +3 a arms - works front shocks- zp rear shock- lsr +3 axle- lsr +2 steering stem - FMF full exhaust - reed spacer exc.

    ESR 350 cylinder with BDT cases in the works

  4. #4
    Senior Member Dman250r's Avatar
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    I'm honestly not sure. More than likely their blown and need a rebuild. When you push them down, the stay down? the springs don't even push them back up?


    1986 TRX310R

    ESR 310 xc ported running C12 at 210 psi
    ESR Trx-5 / 38mm Mikun i/ V-force 3 / Hiper Tech-3's
    PEP Shocks / Burgard +2 arms and +2 stem
    Lonestar swinger / WestCoast hubs / CCP stabilizer
    Full skids / Fat bars / NAC's shrouds
    Motorsports nerfs / AC front bumper
    Precision shock and Vibe / Pro-fab footpegs
    RAD Axle nut / etc. etc.

  5. #5
    Member zlowe712's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
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    Tecumseh, MI
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    they do some what not that good but maybe there not adjusted right ive never did it before
    86' trx 250r
    +3 a arms - works front shocks- zp rear shock- lsr +3 axle- lsr +2 steering stem - FMF full exhaust - reed spacer exc.

    ESR 350 cylinder with BDT cases in the works

  6. #6
    Senior Member Dman250r's Avatar
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    Post some pics and maybe me or someone else can help you. The schrader valve on aftermarket shocks is for nitrogen. NEVER put regular air in them. Did you just get these shocks or have you had them for a while? Did this just start happening or were they always like this? If they're fully adjustable, you can try messing with the rebound (bottom of the shock) and compression (on the remote reservoir) and see if that helps. You can also go to a tire shop or motorcycle shop and have them recharge the nitrogen and see if that helps. To be honest, it sounds like you need to take them to a shop and have them inspected and probably rebuilt...


    1986 TRX310R

    ESR 310 xc ported running C12 at 210 psi
    ESR Trx-5 / 38mm Mikun i/ V-force 3 / Hiper Tech-3's
    PEP Shocks / Burgard +2 arms and +2 stem
    Lonestar swinger / WestCoast hubs / CCP stabilizer
    Full skids / Fat bars / NAC's shrouds
    Motorsports nerfs / AC front bumper
    Precision shock and Vibe / Pro-fab footpegs
    RAD Axle nut / etc. etc.

  7. #7
    Senior Member rumphius's Avatar
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    Jul 2011
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    West Chester PA
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    your shock oil is probably so dirty that its turned to sludge. oil that dirty wont flow through your valves smoothly. have your shock serviced meaning change the oil and recharge it with nitrogen. you may want to have them revalved for a stiffer set up. if you go stiffer in the revalving and its still to soft then you may want to go to a heavier spring. you can only go so far in revalving before you have to change the spring. Example: and this is a completely made up scenario. if you have a spring that is set up for a 180lb rider and your valving is set on 2 you may only be able to go as far a 5 before you have to change springs. you cant go higher than a 5 because it effects how the valves and spring work together. does that make sense. if you go to the stiffest setting and its still to soft and then change your spring and then its to stiff then you have to revalve back down to maybe a 4 or a 3. this is why i NEVER buy used after market shocks. you just never know what your getting. unless the person your buying the shock from is the exact same weight has the exact same bike with the exact same linkage or a-arms and is using it for the exact same application. i would steer clear. once you get the shock the way you want it, it may cost you a few hundred bucks. once again these are completely made up numbers just trying to give you an idea of how a shock works.
    if you have an after market shock and you did not buy it brand new to your specifications you could be opening up a can of worms, in trying to chase down the proper ride set up that you want. try this try that etc etc.
    if you have a shock body that is aluminum then you should change the oil every 3 months an aluminum body shock with make the oil dirty so much faster than a steal body shock. if you have a steal body shock you can change the oil once a year for general riding. if you race then every 3 months regardless. hope that helps

  8. #8
    Senior Member rumphius's Avatar
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    if you have a shock body that is aluminum then you should change the oil every 3 months an aluminum body shock with make the oil dirty so much faster than a steal body shock
    oops.... i meant to say will make the oil dirty.

  9. #9
    Member fearlessfred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumphius View Post
    your shock oil is probably so dirty that its turned to sludge. oil that dirty wont flow through your valves smoothly. have your shock serviced meaning change the oil and recharge it with nitrogen. you may want to have them revalved for a stiffer set up. if you go stiffer in the revalving and its still to soft then you may want to go to a heavier spring. you can only go so far in revalving before you have to change the spring. Example: and this is a completely made up scenario. if you have a spring that is set up for a 180lb rider and your valving is set on 2 you may only be able to go as far a 5 before you have to change springs. you cant go higher than a 5 because it effects how the valves and spring work together. does that make sense. if you go to the stiffest setting and its still to soft and then change your spring and then its to stiff then you have to revalve back down to maybe a 4 or a 3. this is why i NEVER buy used after market shocks. you just never know what your getting. unless the person your buying the shock from is the exact same weight has the exact same bike with the exact same linkage or a-arms and is using it for the exact same application. i would steer clear. once you get the shock the way you want it, it may cost you a few hundred bucks. once again these are completely made up numbers just trying to give you an idea of how a shock works.
    if you have an after market shock and you did not buy it brand new to your specifications you could be opening up a can of worms, in trying to chase down the proper ride set up that you want. try this try that etc etc.
    if you have a shock body that is aluminum then you should change the oil every 3 months an aluminum body shock with make the oil dirty so much faster than a steal body shock. if you have a steal body shock you can change the oil once a year for general riding. if you race then every 3 months regardless. hope that helps
    a lot of good advise.

  10. #10
    Member zlowe712's Avatar
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    well i bought the quad with them in there.....my dad can get nitrogen at work and put them in and how do i change the oil in the shock? if so ill try to do it my self and make it work till i get money to send them off or buy new
    86' trx 250r
    +3 a arms - works front shocks- zp rear shock- lsr +3 axle- lsr +2 steering stem - FMF full exhaust - reed spacer exc.

    ESR 350 cylinder with BDT cases in the works


 

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