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Thread: jetting

  1. #1
    Senior Member timothypantera's Avatar
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    jetting

    ok iv'e done everything to this machine changed the reeds, reed cage, the main jet from 150 to a 152, changed the stator n flywheel, tried diferent cdi boxes, info on the motor new bore 67.50 - 60 over stock new wiseco piston the motor is a TB06E 3rd generation. the bike runs good idling you rev it quick it'll bog if i turn in the fuel n air screw in like a 1/4 turn out from being bottomed out it seems to run heavy smokes likes its getting to much gas but there is a improvement in power and winding up if i ride it and try n engage the power band it'll start off good then goes to crap real choppy studdering almost for whats done to the motor no port n polish work done just bored 60 over i beleive its a stock keihen carb with a 152 main jet. all these things iv'e replaced have not changed a thing any sugestions with it do you think i need bigger jetting cause the fuel n air screw would normally be a turn and a 1/8 out from bottomed out. i'm baffled thank you.

  2. #2
    Junior Member Shortlegs's Avatar
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    check your muffler had same problem few years ago mouse built nest in it cleaned out ran great

  3. #3
    Senior Member timothypantera's Avatar
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    no thats all clear, but i have had that happen to my cagiva 500 i kicked it it let a huge backfire and blew stuff everywhere good idea though thanks

  4. #4
    Supporting Vendor acecarlos's Avatar
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    Clean the carb out, make sure circlip in needle is in place and not mushroomed, get bigger Pilot & Main jets, check your reeds, good fuel flow, and make sure you have NO engine leaks. If it still acts the same, start to look at your Coil, Ground, Wire harness, ect...

    Carlos.
    BDT MOTORSPORTS 909-466-9152 M-F 9:00 AM to 6 PM, Saturday 10 AM to 4:30 PM. Visit our Web Site at WWW.BDTMOTORSPORTS.COM or email: BDTMOTORSPORTS@YAHOO.COM 'SIMPLY THE BEST' BDT MOTORSPORTS'

  5. #5
    Senior Member mennis1971's Avatar
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    I've actually broken 2 needle clips before and the needle didn't drop down all the way. It would start and idle all day, but if you tried to give it gas, it would die. A lot of times it may seem like it is something in the carb when actually you may have a bad ground or some other electrical problem. Check both carb then electrical stuff.

  6. #6
    Senior Member timothypantera's Avatar
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    good advice for sure like you said it'll idle all day long and you rev it up normally it'll tach right out nice but if you pin it quickly it'll fall on its face ( bog ) if i i adjust the fuel n air mixture screw to a 1 1/8 out from bottom thats how it runs but the powerband is real choppy it's dead on its ass when a load on it. the only way to get it to even have any kinda power at all is when the fuel n air screw is like 1/4 turn out from bottom then it'll have a better PB more responsive but still kinda choppy if i take it down the road it starts out good like half way through its PB it goes to crap i know myself it seems like its starving for gas i get it some fuel then it seems to be starving for air ( confused ) well any sugestions on what jet size i should try it's a stock carb keihen i think a pj 38mm had a 150 main jet bumped it to a 152 main jet didnt make much of a diference to be honest none that i could see the motor is bored 60 over stock porting fmf pipe uni air filter with stock air box and has a boyesen metal tab reeds and cage there closing like there suposed to at least they was. i really thought it was the stator n fly wheel i changed that yesterday and not a bit of diference. now the diference between a 86 and 87 is what a 5mm rod length diference a guy told me the diference was in the way the piston was made i don't beleive that its in the rod to my knowledge, thanks guys even though this thing is beating so far but i'll get it right commited to it 2000$ deep we aren't stopping now

  7. #7
    Senior Member diesel's Avatar
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    Read the thread HERE and see if that helps any. It will at least help you get the pilot jet/air screw set where it needs to be, and then you can move on to other carb circuits and adjust them one by one until its right.

  8. #8
    Senior Member timothypantera's Avatar
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    1214110929.jpg1214110928.jpgheres pics of where my flywheel is at tdc aprox a inch and a eighth past the pulsar coil, when the tail of the pulse trigger is ready to pass the pulsar coil the piston is still got a ways to go before tdc and i get a deiseling affect alot out of it like its running backwards cause the kicker all the way down it'll do this make a ratcheting sound then die out it never stays running while this happens runs for 2 or 3 seconds and the motor sounds odd when this happens as well. it was doin this with my stator setup to so its not the one i got from you i'm using that unit. right now the motor is at tdc and look how far away the trigger is from the pulsar, i'm puzzled

  9. #9
    Supporting Vendor acecarlos's Avatar
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    Check your flywheel woodruff key...looks like your set-up is way off. Below is a copy of my reply in the lounge Thread.

    Remember that the ignition fires (spark plug) as the trailing edge of the flywheel trigger passes over the trailing edge of the pick-up.

    IGN timing is usually set between 1.7MM to 2.3MM BTDC. Use a Timing light, Timing marks and an indicator to set the correct timing.

    Carlos.
    BDT MOTORSPORTS 909-466-9152 M-F 9:00 AM to 6 PM, Saturday 10 AM to 4:30 PM. Visit our Web Site at WWW.BDTMOTORSPORTS.COM or email: BDTMOTORSPORTS@YAHOO.COM 'SIMPLY THE BEST' BDT MOTORSPORTS'

  10. #10
    Banned sdyme1995's Avatar
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    Wow, what a long run on jumble.

    Thats all.


 

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